Ascent to Glory

A heart-throbbing scene unfolds on the deck of a sport-fisher as a marlin pops up in the trolling spread, dorsal flung high and pectorals aglow. With powerful, staccato sweeps of its massive tail, the billfish bursts toward the right flat line. All hell breaks loose as the billfish attacks. The crew scurries to action. A rod bends double. A clicker screams. Line melts away in a high‑speed blur. It is what offshore anglers live for.

Yet when it comes to big-game fish, this scenario seems to repeat more for some boats than others. Such “lucky” sport-fishers seem to possess mythical powers, raising innumerable fish from the depths as if by tractor beam.

But do boats really attract offshore species such as mahi, marlin, sailfish, tuna and wahoo? Are some boats more apt to raise offshore fish than others? And if so, what is it that causes fish to home in on such an unnatural object as a boat? These are the questions to which I sought answers from a variety of offshore-angling experts who have fished around the world, from Hawaii to Cape Hatteras to Guatemala.

Boats as Fish-Aggregating Devices

Animal Magnetism

More than one expert has likened a boat to a floating object on the offshore grounds, where game fish are attracted to things such as weed lines and kelp paddies, as well as discarded pallets, offshore weather buoys and man-made FADs (fish-aggregating devices). In their shade and sanctuary, these floating objects often harbor a community of marine life spanning the food chain. So why wouldn’t fish view a boat — despite its transient nature — in the same way?

Anecdotal evidence suggests that a boat in and of itself — whether moving or stationary — will attract fish, according to most of the experts I talked with. What’s more, most believe that visual cues associated with the boat have a stronger influence on fish than do sounds or vibrations.

Supporting these assertions were observations by the late Jim Rizzuto, a beloved Hawaiian fishing authority and writer, who told of two large yellowfin tuna swimming in the shadow of a 30-foot sport-fisher as it trolled for marlin. “The ahi were snuggling up against the hull and seemed not at all upset at the sight and sound of the boat,” Rizzuto said.

In addition, a big blue marlin showed about the same time. He estimated the fish in the 1,000-pound range. “All of these big fish seemed to be attracted to the boat and didn’t want to swim away” Rizzuto said. They appeared to make the boat their home, at least until the crew caught the yellowfin, though they failed to get the marlin.

A Sport Boat is Just a Big Teaser

In some ways, a moving boat might be even more attractive to predatory fish than a stationary object. This is due to what some might call the big-teaser effect. Like a large, hookless teaser lure designed to create a commotion on the surface to simulate a school of fish attacking bait and draw the attention of a curious predator, the prop wash, froth, and splashing of the boat hull may accomplish the same thing.

Most big-game anglers assume that a boat moving through the water is your biggest teaser and the first thing that notifies a billfish of your presence. A boat is larger than any teaser, attracting fish from a distance. They see the boat, the teaser, then your bait.

Some captains believe that the boldest fish are also the largest ones, at least when it comes marlin, and so they are more likely to get close to the boat. “In Hawaii, the lures closest to the boat often draw strikes from the biggest fish,” Rizzuto used to say. Yet, the longer trolling lines usually take smaller fish.

“As a result, big-game trollers generally position their largest lures just a few wakes back,” the Hawaiian angling expert explained.

The type of wake a boat lays down can also affect success, according to Randy Ramsey, co-founder of North Carolina-based Jarrett Bay Boatworks. “Billfish are sight feeders, and a clean wake allows them to see the baits or lures more easily,” Ramsey explained. Three factors that help create clean wakes include a hull that’s free of fouling, properly aligned running gear and well-tuned propellers.

Raising Fish Like the Pied Piper

Most experts agree that sound also plays a role in how well a boat raises offshore fish. While no one has conducted empirical testing, boats emitting the thrum from a pair of big diesel engines certainly catch a fair share of offshore fish. Yet, could this be the result of the greater number of twin-diesel sport‑fishers out there trolling? Plenty of fish have also been caught by anglers trolling with multiple four-stroke outboard engines. That number seems to be on the rise as more and more supersize center-console boats head out to pursue big-game fish.

Many assert that the key seems to be the resonance set up between two or more marine power plants, rather than the type of engine. This results in a pulsed low-frequency sound underwater that draws in fish from a distance. It has been long established that sharks are attracted to low-frequency, pulsed white noise, much like the sound of injured baitfish or a pair of out-of-synch diesel engines. We can only assume that billfish are attracted to this noise as well.

The correct harmonics make a big difference in whether fish will come to the boat to look at the lures, according to Capt. Brad Philipps, who runs Guatemala Fishing Adventures and has released more than 25,000 billfish.

“A captain’s preference for a particular trolling speed may reflect his boat’s ‘sweet spot,’” he says. “Engines turning at a certain rpm range may produce a set of harmonics that raise billfish like the Pied Piper.”

How does he know when he has achieved this? The fish tell him so. “I know I’m pulling at the right speed when we’re getting as many or more bites than the boats around us.”

The type of hull construction might also play a role, Ramsey explained. “I look at boats such as Big Oh, Chainlink, Inspiration and Sensation — boats that have been successful with different crews,” he says. “One thing they all have in common is that these are wooden-cored boats. While these hulls might not be popular, wooden-cored boats might make them better at raising fish.”

Stay Tuned

Sometimes the harmonics can turn sour. This was the case with Kona, Hawaii, Capt. John Bagwell, according to Rizzuto. Bagwell and his boat, Silky, had been on a hot streak. He and his crew had won a Skins Tournament with a 645-pound blue marlin, and followed it up a few weeks later with Henry Chee Award for the highest-scoring skipper in the Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament.

“Later in the year, however, Bagwell began to wonder if his 45-foot Viking had lost its competitive edge,” said Rizzuto. “The captain began to think the engines didn’t sound right.”

The fish evidently felt the same, as the boat was not getting as many blue marlin strikes as earlier in the year. So Bagwell had the boat hauled and ordered tune-ups on the twin 485 Detroit diesels, transmissions and running gear. After the tune-up, Silky was again running as smoothly as its name, according to Rizzuto. And the fish returned to its wake. Silky and its crew picked up the pace, releasing a steady stream of billfish, just as before.

The lesson here: Sport-fishers require regular tune-ups if they are to maintain the harmonics that attract fish. “A squeaky bearing or bent prop blade could blow up into expensive problems,” said Rizzuto, “but none bigger than dragging down the fish count.”

Echoing that sentiment is Jarrett Bay’s Ramsey. “One thing is for sure,” he said, “if a boat has a bad vibration, bearing noise, bent prop shaft or other issues, this hurts the boat’s ability to raise fish.”

Ramsey pointed to evidence based on the success of new boats. “Have you ever noticed that new boats seem to catch better than older ones?” he asked. “I think it is because the bearings and running gear are tight. Crews and owners should pay attention to this as their boats age, and ensure everything is running properly.”

Size Can Matter

Large and In Charge

It seems that bigger sport-fishing boats consistently rack up higher scores than do smaller boats. But again, this might simply be a matter of numbers: In most parts of the world, there are more large sport-fishers offshore at any given time than there are smaller boats. And because of their size, larger boats can go big-game fishing on days when marginal weather and large seas force smaller boats to stay in port.

Yet, according to many experts, fish don’t care what kind of boat you are on. In my experience, I have found success in raising striped marlin off Southern California behind even smaller boats, including a single-diesel-powered 26-foot convertible and a single-outboard-powered 22-foot center-console. Yet in most cases, the marlin were as thick as fleas offshore. On tougher days, the larger boats with twin engines seemed to hold the advantage when it came to trolling.

Running large hookless teasers, daisy chains of artificial squid, or dredges can help create more commotion and enlarge your offshore “footprint” while trolling in a boat that’s smaller than rest of the fleet, and this can help level the playing field when fishing among the big boys.

Sounder Proof

How can you tell if your boat’s fishy? There is a way to test its fish-attracting power, according to Rizzuto, but it relies on keeping your eye on the fish finder. Sport-fishers equipped with high-quality fish finders can mark fish such as marlin and tuna as deep as 20 to 30 fathoms.

“When you spot a marlin or tuna down deep on the fish finder, turn your head around and look at your wake,” Rizzuto said. “Then count to 20.” It takes about 10 to 20 seconds for a curious blue marlin to swim to the surface to investigate.

“If you don’t see the fish slashing at your lures or tracking them, mark the spot on your GPS chart plotter and circle back after you are sure your lures have cleared the area with no interest from a billfish,” he added. “Troll over the area again, and give the fish another chance to investigate.” Raising fish such as marlin or tuna in this manner will prove that your boat has fish-attracting power.

Men and Machine

Of course, a boat alone will not catch fish. The experience, knowledge, and hard work of an energetic captain and crew rank as essential elements of offshore success. It is the crew’s intimate understanding of how to take advantage of a boat’s fish-attracting characteristics that proves critical. The crew’s ability to select the best lures, gauge the proper trolling distances and choose the right speed — not only for the boat, but for the ever-changing sea conditions — can often mean more than anything else.

Just as a fine guitar requires a talented musician to make music, a modern fishing machine requires the skill of its captain and crew to make fish rise to the trolling spread. And when it comes together, there’s nothing in this world that’s more exciting. That’s why I call it raising havoc.

The post Raising Havoc: Attract Pelagics to Your Boat appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Old Town Sportsman BigWater ePDL+ 132

“Most of my fishing is done in the Piscataqua River, which is one of the fastest navigable rivers in the world. With the ePDL+ I can fish in current I have never been able to with any other kayak. It’s a beast when chasing schools of breaking fish in heavy current or covering new water. This kayak is an excellent platform to stand and sight fish from. When striper fishing, I can use the motor to travel farther and faster than I normally would. Then, I lift the motor and push pole myself around as I fish. Lifting the drive for obstacles or shallow water is simple.” —Guide Tim Moore, Tim Moore Outdoors, New Hampshire

Price: $5,999

Native Watercraft TitanX Propel 12.5

“Several features of the TitanX make it optimal for backwater fishing: Propel Pedal Drive (instant, hands-free reverse for fighting fish), rock solid stability (easily stand up to sight fish), Springblade Rudder system (get in and out of cuts and currents in the marsh with responsive turning), and under-seat tackle drawer storage (super quick access to gear to change out baits). Plus, anglers can easily add dual Power-Pole Micro Anchors to the stern and a bow-mounted saltwater trolling motor. These additions are life savers when you want to hold position on windy days or in strong currents.” —Tyler Brown, Chief Operating Officer, BIG Adventures (parent company of Native Watercraft)

Price: $3,599

Read Next: Why I Love My Kayak

Hobie Mirage Lynx

“Many of today’s kayaks are rigged to the max with batteries, electronics, anchors and trolling motors, so it’s fair to ask what’s the difference between a loaded yak and a one-man skiff? Still, these rigs are wildly popular for a reason. On the opposite end, models are still available for that kayak angler minimalist. Hobie’s Mirage Lynx weighs just 47 pounds, but still uses a MirageDrive 180 with Kick-Up Fins. Almost like a paddleboard, there’s not much built-in storage with this yak, but plenty of ability to add-on accessories if that’s the direction you go. The Lynx’s flat-bottom design provides stability and maneuverability — imagine having to make a lengthy pedal to the fishing grounds, sometimes across extremely shallow bars that most yaks can’t dodge. There’s no better kayak to quickly unload and launch from the side of the road.” —Sam Hudson, Senior Editor, Salt Water Sportsman

Price: $3,299

The post Best Kayaks for the Marsh appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

The offshore experts have engineered a line of center console hybrids designed to go anywhere and do everything. Regulator’s XO Series gives you easy access to lakes, bays and skinny waters, as well as the capability to head offshore when the time is right.

First let’s look at the fishing benefits. Optional Half Towers, Trolling Motors and excellent fishbox and livewell space deliver an ideal platform. Take a run at freshwater bass, work speckled trout and redfish off an eelgrass bed, drift for flounder, and jig an offshore wreck for stripers or black sea bass. Lockable racks hold fly rods and spinners, with ample tackle storage, rod holders and rocket launchers throughout the oversize cockpit and deck.

Ready to kick back? Mount the optional watersports tow bar, snap in the cushions, put the bow on the beach, and roll out the forward and rear sun shades. Generous seating areas, forward console coolers, full height head, and creature comforts galore mean you have every reason to fish and play all day.

Featured Models

The Regulator 30XO delivers every bit of inshore/offshore attitude you’ve come to expect from their series of hybrid center consoles, along with big boat features to meet your every need. Twin Yamaha F350s, optional Half Tower Station & more deliver the next big powerhouse crossover. 

The Regulator 26XO is a hybrid center console built for adventure. New optional half tower, single Yamaha 450, multiple casting platforms, built-in coolers, stand-up head compartment, forward sun shade option, and optional removable watersports tow bar allow you to fish and play all day.

The Regulator 24XO hybrid center console gives you easy access to lakes, bays, and skinny waters, along with the capability to head offshore when the time is right. Now equipped with a standard Yamaha F350, with optional hydraulic jackplate and trolling motor. 

The post Hybrid Center Consoles for Fishing and Watersports Adventures appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

What is the minimum size boat for offshore fishing? The answer depends on who you ask. The challenge and your budget are the two biggest reasons for fishing from a small offshore boat. Many cite the unique satisfaction of taking on the ocean to fish it on their own terms, knowing they have the boat, the knowledge and the ability to get out there, catch some good fish and get back.

“There’s definitely the excitement of being out there in a small boat where you’re in control and doing your own thing,” said Angelo Cuanang, a West Coast offshore fishing writer and expert who regularly fishes off San Francisco Bay. He’s done so for many years — all in a 17-foot Boston Whaler Montauk. Being unsinkable, the Whaler is one of the best small boats for ocean fishing.

One school of thought from skilled mariners actually considers a smaller hull advantageous in large swells. Tom King, once a professional mate in Massachusetts, for years made the 20-plus-mile run to fish Stellwagen Bank aboard his 19-foot Midland (“a Nova Scotia-style hull,” he said, with a very high bow and very low freeboard). “We came home riding on top of the big seas like an eggshell, while much bigger sport-fishing boats were having a tough time rolling in the swells.”

For purposes of this discussion, let’s focus on saltwater fishing boats with a minimum size ranging from 17 to 22 feet in length overall (LOA). A boat this size has an element of responsiveness that much larger hulls lose. In addition to being a criterion for offshore fishing, this size range also offers the best small boats for rough seas. Of course, rough seas are relative, and distance from shore often dictates the decision to go or not go.

Offshore Boating Benefits of Small Fishing Boats

Besides the challenge, downsized boats are less expensive and easy to tow on the road than king-size boats. Small boats can also be easier to handle and dock in tight quarters, though features such as joystick controls on larger boats are making low-speed maneuvers easier for skippers of large boats.

Start comparing costs of purchase, insurance, moorage or storage, maintenance and so on for a 30-foot center-console with those of a 22-footer. Then of course there are fuel costs. At today’s prices, a day fishing a 30-footer with twin 300 hp outboards can cost you in the high hundreds of dollars, if not more than $1,000. But you can run offshore and troll all day in a boat such as the Robalo R222 (21 feet 6 inches LOA) or Sea Chaser 22 HFC (21 feet 9 inches LOA) with a single 200 or 250 hp outboard for a few hundred or less.

Lots of anglers trailer their boats 50 to 100 miles at the drop of a hat. Compare hauling a double- or triple-axle trailer behind a ¾- to 1-ton pickup versus a lighter, single- or double-axle trailer behind a half-ton pickup — and there’s even more economy.

Small-Boat Knowledge, Ability and Common Sense

There’s no federal regulation stating that “Thou shalt not take thy boat and go (offshore),” and in fact the Coast Guard only has authority in a few places to prevent boaters from going where they want, a Coast Guard spokesman said. To go or not to go is not the question. Rather, focus on knowing your small boat, recognizing when to go or not, and with what gear and preparation.

Accident reports often retell scenarios where anglers in small boats perished before the Coast Guard could reach them. Often these are cases where knowing the boat and having the right equipment could have saved lives. Experience often makes a major difference when it comes to safety. Anglers who know what the ocean can dish out and respect that power choose to err on the side of caution, and do not scrimp on safety gear.

Many who skipper such mighty mites far from land tend to be independent by nature. Still, many make it a point to travel offshore with another boat — known as “buddy boating”— when possible, small or large, which in effect offers a second engine.

Whether or not you have a buddy going with you, be sure to file a float plan before you leave. That can be as simple as making sure someone back on land knows when you plan to depart and return, and where — in general — you expect to fish.

The Right Boat: Moderate Vees and Hard Chines

What is the best small boat for offshore fishing? There are plenty of 17- to 22-footers for fishing bays, channels or flats. But if you plan to run offshore, you’ll need to investigate construction, quality and design.

That said, some bay boats such as the Pathfinder 2200 TE (22 feet 2 inches LOA) or Sea Born FX22 Bay Sport (21 foot 9 inches LOA) offer offshore fishing capability, as well as the ability to sneak into shallow inshore waters.

Still, there can be no doubt that with the specialized demands of offshore fishing, not all small hulls are created equal. When it comes to hull design, opinions vary — suggesting competent small hulls might come in more than one style.

A modified V rather than the deep V common on larger center consoles ranks as the top choice among experts looking for the optimal small planing hull for big water. While the steeper deadrise angle of up to 26 degrees at the transom offers the softest ride through waves, an angle in the 17- to 20-degree range proves more stable. That way you still get some damping effect from the V but also get some benefit of lateral stability.

Fuel capacity becomes a serious consideration for any small boat heading offshore. On the minus side: Many small boats have built-in tanks and some provide space only for portables. On the plus side: Light boats with small outboards can go all day on amazingly little fuel. Once you pick a boat, know its range and always allow for at least a 15 percent reserve.

A small but important point: marine battery placement. Batteries should ride forward, beneath the console, rather than at the transom, where they can get wet and add unnecessary weight.

One other essential element of small boat construction that becomes particularly important offshore is flotation. Positive flotation is required for certification by the National Marine Manufacturers Association in boats less than 20 feet, but the best hulls are fully filled with foam, and the reasons should be obvious. In an emergency, water can force air out of a hull or sides but not out of foam. A light hull gains little weight (always a factor) but considerable strength and rigidity from foam.

Water In, Water Out

A small boat easily takes on spray and, on rough days, some green water as well. That’s when scuppers become critical. (This assumes that no angler without a death wish would be offshore in a boat that’s not self-bailing.) The scuppers must be able to drain water as fast as it comes into the hull — if not, you’ll soon be playing submarine.

Transom height and design also play key roles in keeping water out of small boats. A small outboard-powered boat faces trouble fast once enough ocean water enters and runs to one side or the other in heavy seas. To help avoid that, look for small offshore boats with a full transom. A cut-out transom might work with a really good, generous motorwell. Worst case for offshore: a low, cut-out transom with no well. If that describes your boat, stick to the bay.

The Right Offshore Boating Equipment

No small boat, however seaworthy and stable, belongs offshore — ever — if it’s not properly equipped. The most major piece of equipment to consider is your outboard engine. A traditional preference among blue-water anglers has been twin or even triple outboards for safety. However, adding a second engine for the small boater might be either cost-, design- or weight-prohibitive. Fortunately, today’s outboard engines are more reliable than ever.

When feasible, a small auxiliary engine (aka kicker) is a great addition since it can get you home in a pinch — but, again, it may not be worth the additional weight on the stern of a 17- to 22-footer.

Additional key safety equipment to carry when fishing offshore includes the following:

Fixed-Mount VHF Radio — Fundamental and essential. Fixed-mount radios offer a range of 15 to 20 miles while handhelds only reach out 3 to 8 miles. All new VHFs, by law, come with Digital Selective Calling, which instantly sends a distress call to authorities anywhere in the world. Be sure that you set up your DSC calling feature before leaving port. Cell phones are popular everywhere, including offshore, and offer some backup. But these can’t substitute for a VHF in a pinch since users might not find coverage in all areas offshore, and a phone call does not immediately summon on-water help. Mate your VHF radio to a tall (8-foot) VHF antenna for the range necessary when fishing offshore.

GPS Plotter/Sounder — As critical for navigation as for fishing. Separate units are fine, but a single unit (capable of showing both chart plotter and sounder reading on screen simultaneously) maximizes limited space on small consoles.

Compass — With a good nautical chart, a compass will keep you headed in the right direction if your GPS fails. Amazingly, some small boaters venture far offshore with neither radio nor compass, according to the Coast Guard.

Extra Battery — Any boat fishing offshore should have a dual-battery system with a selector switch. This allows you to keep one battery in reserve in case one goes dead.

Emergency Beacons — An EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicator Radio Beacon) and a PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) are good ideas for any boat fishing offshore. Once activated, an encoded digital message is received by satellites, and is then transmitted back to ground-based search and rescue authorities. This signal provides information to assist in the search. Assuming you have properly registered the EPIRB or PLB, it tells rescuers who you are, your boat type and size, where you are, and other important data, including emergency contact information. An EPIRB is registered to the boat and is usually mounted on deck, while a PLB is registered to an individual and is carried by that person.

Life Jackets — Going offshore without them would not only be illegal but insane. Make sure your jackets are Coast Guard rated for offshore use (Type I). It is a good idea to wear a life jacket at all times, especially if fishing alone.

Emergency Kit — including flare gun and flares, cyalume sticks and waterproof strobe lights. (I also make sure my boat’s running lights are in good working order.) Don’t forget a good flashlight and extra sunscreen.

Emergency Food and Water — At least a half-gallon of water, some granola bars and beef jerky or canned meat can get you through a day or two.

Anchor and Lots of Line — Even if you don’t anchor to fish, you might find an anchor valuable, and plenty of heavy line is a must if you need to be towed.

Sea Anchor — Space might preclude stowing a small sea anchor, but make sure you have at least a bucket or, in a pinch, even a spare life jacket. Most boats tend to drift stern-to — the worst situation in a building sea. Your odds of staying afloat when broken down and adrift go up by a big chunk if you can keep the bow into the waves, and any sort of sea anchor will help accomplish this.

Pick the Right Fishing Weather

Given a seaworthy boat, properly equipped, everything else comes down to common sense. And nowhere can the small boater better demonstrate that than by reading the weather before and during a trip.

Starting out the morning in a 3-foot sea is a mere irritant to a 30-footer, but for the mini-boater who has his head screwed on right, it means a canceled trip. Many mornings I’ve arisen to find the weather service data revised from the previous evening’s 5- to 10-knot wind forecast to one of 10 to 20 knots. Anyone hoping to go offshore in a 17- to 22-footer has to realize his fishing days will be limited.

Look for periods between frontal systems, particularly in fall, winter and spring when dead-calm days sneak in between blows. During the summer, high pressure systems often bring many successive days of calm weather, particularly in the morning. The run home in many regions might mean a moderate but manageable chop, thanks to afternoon sea breezes.

Just be sure you know the marine forecast for the day, before you head out. When the forecast calls for light breezes all day and into the night, boating anglers with small boats can usually venture forth into offshore ocean waters with peace of mind. Otherwise, the best rule of thumb is a simple one: When in doubt, don’t go out.

The post Small Boats for Offshore Fishing appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

What’s good fuel economy for a fishing boat? That’s a loaded question, because just what constitutes “good” is open to debate. If you’re talking about a 65-foot sportfish that weighs 100,000 pounds and blasts across the ocean at 30 knots with 4,000 diesel horses churning in the engine room, a third of a mile to the gallon isn’t bad. At the opposite end of the spectrum, a jon boat with a 15 hp four-stroke outboard and a light load can top 10 mpg. Or you could go even farther afield and note that there are plenty of kayaks that qualify as fishing boats and make three or four mph while burning only calories.

Comparison Standards

When judging a boat’s fuel economy, the best way to go about it is to compare boats of the same size. This is no easy feat. Boats aren’t standardized. For example, if two models have an identical length, they may well have different beams, and different horsepower with different brand engines. Then, there are environmental factors to consider. Was a boat’s fuel efficiency measured on flat calm waters, choppy seas, or in a maelstrom? How strong a current was running, and was the boat going with, against, or across it? The difference in that very same boat’s fuel economy can vary dramatically from one day to the next.

Usage Factors

Now let’s talk about just what all these boats are doing. Efficiency at idle is very different from efficiency at cruise, which is yet again different from efficiency at wide-open throttle. Some boats offer great economy while going slow, but poor economy while going fast. Others are the diametric opposite. So, where in the rpm range and speed band do you plan to compare them? This depends on how you use and run your boat the bulk of the time.

Considering all these factors, it’s clear that we have to recognize from the outset that assessing a boat’s fuel efficiency is often comparing apples to oranges with a few bananas and maybe a plum or two in the mix. Still, we can look at a broad swath of boats and make a few basic assertions.

Category Examples

A comparison of five 18-foot center consoles rigged with 115 hp outboards and running at approximately 30 mph is illuminating. At the top of the cruising efficiency range, one gets 5.7 mpg, and at the bottom, another gets 4.2 mpg. The average for all of these rigs is 5.0 mpg. However, is that gas-hog getting 0.8 mpg below average? Not necessarily, because it also has the most efficient slow pace, getting 8.8 mpg at around five mph while the other boats averaged 7.7 mpg. So, which of those boats gets good fuel economy? Well, are you cruising or are you trolling?

Now let’s jump up the scale to 25-footers running at 30 mph on a single 300 hp outboard. The range tightens, with the best economy checking in at 3.5 mpg and the lowest at 3.0; the average sits at 3.2. Once again, for whatever reason the boat with the lowest cruising mpg scores the highest slow speed efficiency, but by a much lower margin (4.6 mpg versus an average of 4.5).

Running With the Big Dogs

Up we go again, this time to 30-foot twin-engine rigs with pairs of 300 hp outboards. The spread shrinks even more at 30 mph, from 1.5 to 1.8 mpg with a 1.7 average. Idling along at trolling speed, fuel economy is no more than 0.3 mpg apart. And at wide-open, no more than 0.2 mpg apart.

So, what can we tell from these results? The bigger the boat gets, the less of a difference you’ll see in fuel economy between different rigs. If you’re shopping for an 18-footer, fuel economy is worth some consideration, but if you’re shopping for a 30-plus footer, less so.

Notable Exceptions

Except that there are exceptions. What happens when we introduce a multi-hull boat (aka power cat) into the mix of 30-footers? The cat ekes out a win over the top V-hull, with 1.9 mpg. What about throwing in a twin-stepped hull into the mix? Best efficiency at 30 mph jumps up to 2.1 mpg.

Of course, power cats and stepped hulls have their own quirks and peculiarities. Remember: apples, oranges, bananas, and plums. When it comes to fishing boats, it’s pretty darn tough to determine exactly what “good fuel economy” means. Which brings us back to those fishing kayaks. Because considering how poor the fuel economy of boats in general can be, we’re thinking you just can’t beat five miles to the turkey-and-cheese sandwich.

The post What’s Good Fuel Economy for a Fishing Boat? appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

“Don’t check the weather, just go outside and deal with it. Be a man.”

Those words, followed by group laughter, have become a mantra for a host of internet memes depicting boaters in life-threatening seas.

They are poor words to live by if you intend to live a long life. In fact, prudent seamanship dictates that no boating angler heads to sea without first checking marine forecasts. Decisions, including the captain’s call to go or no-go, should be based on the expected winds and sea conditions.

Yet, without much warning, conditions can sometimes change mid-trip, defying the forecast. While light winds and calm seas might greet you in the morning, unexpectedly high afternoon winds or thunder storms can brew up big, treacherous seas in the latter part of the day. This leaves you and your crew facing a harrowing trip back to port. The smaller the boat, the higher the danger.

One lesson I learned early in my boating career is that changing the angle of the boat relative to large waves can smooth the ride for an improvement in comfort. More importantly, this can improve the safety factor. Here are some helmsman tips I have garnered over the year for running in rough sea conditions.

Quartering Head Seas

While a straight line between two points is the shortest route, it’s not always the safest, most comfortable or even fastest. For example, when faced with steep, closely spaced head seas, heading directly into them ranks as a hate mission that slows your progress to a crawl. You also risk the possibility of stuffing as the boat falls off the crest of a roller and into a hole at the base of the next angry one.

Instead, try steering off-sea in one direction for a few miles, and then steering the other way for a few miles. This is called “quartering the waves” to help smooth the ride, and the zig-zagging course is known as “tacking.”

Quartering and tacking require strong piloting skills — including good timing, judicious application of throttle and focus at the wheel — to keep the boat on course and deal with the occasional rogue wave. On the downside, you’ll take more spray quartering up-sea, but that’s the price you pay for a smoother, safer ride.

Running Before the Sea

Large following seas loom treacherous as the boat races down the face of a wave, sometimes losing steering and leaving you vulnerable to the roller astern. There’s also the risk stuffing into the backsides of waves rolling ahead. Quartering down-sea minimizes these risks, but try take a wider angle than when quartering up-sea. Also realize the faces of the waves can be very steep. On small boats, keep you crew off the lee side of the boat. Instead, ask them to move to the windward (aka wet) stern quarter. When it’s time to reverse your tack, do so in a lull between the waves, and then come about smartly.

Beam Sea Sense

Beam seas tend to be the least threatening, but they can prove a lot more wet on windy passages. But you can minimize the spray by alternatively quartering sharply up-sea for a while, then down-sea, tacking across the beam seas rather than running a straight course. On the other hand, you can just don foul-weather gear, run a straight course and endure the spray.

Or as the internet memes put it, “Deal with it. Be a man,” at least until you reach your destination.

The post Angle of Attack appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

My first experience with electric-powered boats came on a six-grade trip to our nation’s capital. Though we were there to visit the Smithsonian, the trip involved a detour to Baltimore Harbor for reasons that are lost to time. While there, we were permitted to pilot small, two-seat vessels that moved about at a couple knots via electric motors. I remember the novelty of zipping through the harbor silently, racing my classmates within the confines of the buoys laid out by the attraction as a course.

I had all but forgotten about electricity as a power source for boats since then, aside from the ever-present trolling motor. But recent advances in battery power have made electricity a viable source of primary propulsion for vessels large and small. Now, you can find a variety of electric outboards on the market, from manufacturers like Newport, Torqeedo, Elco (which was founded way back in 1890), and even Mercury. While most of these are smaller motors, some are comparable to 80-hp gas engines. I recently had the opportunity to test out the Newport NT300, a 3 horsepower equivalent, and found it to be an excellent substitute for a gas motor, with many of its own benefits.

History of Electric Propulsion

Electric-powered boats aren’t exactly new, with the earliest models debuting over a century ago. A 24-foot boat capable of carrying 14 passengers was supposedly demonstrated on the Neva River in Saint Petersburg, Russia in 1839. Brainchild of German inventor Moritz von Jacobi, the vessel was reported to have achieved speeds of 3 miles per hour.

A small electric motor was patented by French electrical engineer Gustave Trouvé in 1880, and ushered in an era of electric power. By 1882, commercial launches were taking passengers up and down England’s Thames River. And in 1893, a fleet of 55 electric-powered launches ferried attendees at the Chicago World’s Fair, putting the technology on display on the world’s stage. Some estimates state that the vessels moved as many as one million passengers during the fair.

Electric power was much easier to harness than steam, so it dominated the water until the proliferation of the gasoline outboard around 1920. The storage capacity of onboard fuel tanks exceeded what the batteries of the time were capable of, so it made sense that gas engines took over. But electric power never completely went away on the water, with a handful of commercial electric boats in service, mostly scattered throughout Europe.

What is an Electric Outboard?

Trolling motors are all but standard equipment on fishing boats fresh and salt these days, but electric outboards are different. While trolling motors are designed as a secondary propulsion system to sneak anglers through and around structure or hold them in place over a productive piece of bottom, electric outboards are intended as primary propulsion to get boats from Point A to Point B. To do so, electric outboards typically have larger, more efficient motors. This lets them zoom to distant spots at a more rapid pace, and typically provides longer battery life.

Some credit Morton Ray, founder of Ray Electric Outboards, with producing the first electric outboard in 1973. This unit was similar in appearance to conventional gas outboards, housing the direct current powerhead in a cowling on top and transferring the energy through a midsection and out through a “lower unit” to a propeller.

That configuration is the exception to the rule, with most manufacturers placing the electric motor where the lower unit would be in a conventional outboard. These designs are much simpler, with a waterproof housing holding the motor and a direct-drive shaft turning the prop.

Powering an Electric Outboard

Electric outboards are fairly power hungry, and typically require at least 36 volts to operate, though some need more and some less. Typically, more volts translate to more power at the prop. To achieve a 22-horsepower equivalent, Ray Electric Outboards’ System 700 motor needs 72 volts.

Some electric outboards use proprietary battery packs that are inserted into the assembly, and others hook up to batteries in a much more conventional manner. Because they need to pack a lot of power into a small space, the integrated battery packs utilize lithium ion technology. Batteries that can be hooked up using wires can be of any chemistry, as long as they are capable of producing the correct voltage.

You can wire three lead acid 12-volt batteries in series to achieve 36 volts, which lets you use cheaper batteries at the expense of weight. Or, you can grab one of the increasingly common 36-volt lithium ion batteries on the market. These are very light in weight and can be hooked directly to 36-volt motors. Unfortunately, they are currently more expensive than legacy battery types and require specific chargers. But many find the weight and simplified rigging to be worth the cost.

Benefits of Electric Outboards

Electric outboards offer many benefits over their internal combustion counterparts, with the most noticeable being the lack of noise that accompanies their use. While modern four stroke gas engines are much quieter than their predecessors, they still produce a fair amount of noise—particularly if you pour the coals on. With no explosions taking place, electric outboards are just about silent.

The lack of maintenance required is another high point of owning an electric outboard. Unlike a gas outboard, you don’t need to change the oil every 100 hours. You don’t need to change lower unit oil either, or worry about water pumps.

No gas means there’s no potential for spills, and no exhaust fumes. It also means no trips to the filling station either, which saves some money. Industry estimates put the cost of a typical charge for a 36-volt battery somewhere in the neighborhood of a buck, which is much less than you’ll pay for a gallon of gas.

Disadvantages of Electric Outboards

There’s no getting around it: You need to charge batteries for them to continue to power a motor. This takes much longer than filling a gas tank, from a couple of hours to overnight depending on the size of the battery and the state of discharge. And this requires being on the power grid, or at least a portable generator. So if you’re really out there in the woods, it’s probably easier to bring a gas motor and a few jerry cans.

Temperature is another factor that can negatively affect electric outboards, or should I say their batteries. Anyone that’s had a hard time starting their car during a tough northern winter knows that battery performance can suffer, losing as much as 30 percent of its stated capacity. Lithium ion batteries tend to fare better when the mercury plummets, with only about 2 to 5 percent reduction. There are concerns about charging lithium ion batteries in below freezing temperatures, but that’s probably not something any boater needs to be concerned with.

A Week with the Newport NT300

I recently had the chance to test out Newport’s NT300 3 horsepower equivalent electric outboard and 36V 30AH Lithium Battery on a week-long trip to a lake in New Hampshire’s White Mountain region. I typically outfit my square stern canoe with an aged eggbeater of a motor that propels the boat well, but wakes everyone on the lake up with its two-stroke scream. Equipping the same canoe with Newport’s NT300 only produced the sound of rushing water being pushed by the prop. The whole experience was so silent that a pair of inquisitive loons swam alongside me several times over the week of testing.

The motor attaches in much the same way as every other small outboard I’ve used, by tightening a couple clamps on to the transom. These never worked themselves loose in the way that they sometimes do with gas outboards, probably because the NT300 didn’t seem to vibrate as much. There is a pin to set the motor attitude, and has a fairly wide range of adjustment so this should work on a variety of vessels. I used an extension to place the battery up at the bow of the canoe, but with it only weighing 24 pounds this might have been unnecessary.

The motor functions in a similar fashion to a transom-mount trolling motor; twist the throttle one way and it goes forward, the other way and it goes backward. There was a reverse lock to keep it from going skyward when you back up, which is much needed because that torque will lift it right out of the water. The kill switch is magnetic, and shuts the motor off instantly when removed. Overall, it was just like running any other tiller outboard I’ve used.

I was a bit surprised by the throttle response, though I suppose I shouldn’t have been. The high torque created by electric motors translates into near instant acceleration. I’m used to twisting the throttle, waiting for the engine’s RPMs to increase, and then waiting even longer for that to make it to the propeller. With the NT300, there’s a half a second or less pause between actuating the throttle and full acceleration. There were a couple of times that I surprised myself, and found the canoe’s seat rather quickly.

There is one similarity between a gas outboard and the NT300, and that’s “fuel” consumption. On a typical gas outboard, there’s a sweet spot where the engine is most efficient. Go beyond that, and you blow through fuel at an exponential rate. On the NT300, running wide open depleted the battery in short order, but even reducing the throttle to 80 percent increased range by a large margin with little reduction in speed.

The motor’s LCD display made it easy to know throttle position, and the amount of power that was being utilized. At wide open throttle, I got a little over an hour run time. At 60 percent throttle, I was able to run around for most of the day. Using the throttle sparingly, I could go from dawn to dusk, juicing it when I wanted to cover distance quickly. I initially dismissed the battery’s app as a gimmick, but it allowed me to track energy consumption in real time, seeing the amount of current being drawn.

Speed was about what I would expect with a gas motor, if not a little more. A GPS app on my phone stated I was moving along at about 7 miles per hour, which seems right to my calibrated eyeball. Though the NT300 isn’t designed as a trolling motor, the infinitely variable throttle let me crank the output down as low as 1 percent, allowing me to creep along. I was even able to set the throttle to counteract a particularly annoying tailwind, holding the canoe in place so I could stand and fish with ease.

You might be wondering what happens to the motor if you hit a rock. Unfortunately, I can answer that after contacting a submerged boulder at speed. There was a minor nick on the skeg and some slight damage to the prop, but the motor’s function didn’t seem to be affected. The NT300 continued unbothered.

The Verdict

A few years ago, I probably would have laughed at the idea of an electric outboard. But after using one for a week, I believe that battery-powered outboards have a place in both fresh and saltwater fishing. I have only just begun to experiment with mine, but my initial experiences suggest this is perfect for sneaking up on spooky fish in skinny water, exploring quiet backwaters or equipping a dingy for launch duty. I think we will see more electric vessels in the near future.

The post Intro to Electric Outboards appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

YELLOWFIN 26 HYBRID

The Yellowfin 26 Hybrid represents one of the smallest bay boats available with twin outboards. This highly customizable, offshore capable model can handle a pair of outboards up to 500 hp total. For inshore fishing, it drafts just 1 feet, 4 inches, striking a practical compromise between the shallows and bluewater. The 26 Hybrid carries 118 gallons of fuel, and there are hardtop and tower options to customize this model for the way you fish. You can also order the forward seating option or choose an insulated coffin box for the forward deck. An upright livewell resides in the leaning post module abaft the helm seating.

• LOA: 26’0”
• Beam: 8’8”
• Draft: 1’4” (engines up)
• Transom Deadrise: 21 degrees
• Weight: 5,000 lb.
• Fuel Capacity: 118 gal.
• Max Horsepower: 500

SHEARWATER 270 CAROLINA OPEN

The 270 Carolina Open from ShearWater represents one of the first bay boats to confer this genre with available twin outboards, making it a bit of a curiosity about a decade ago, but now it is one among the mainstream in twin-outboard bay boat category. At 26 feet, 10 inches in length, it carries a maximum horsepower rating a 600. The HPI (High Pressure Injection) system results in a high-strength, lightweight hull, which sports an 8-foot, 8-inch beam. The 270 Carolina Open drafts 1 foot, 4 inches with the engines up and provides a fuel capacity of 129 gallons. It is available with twin Mercury or Yamaha outboards, including Merc 225 V-6s and Yamaha F300 V-6s.

• LOA: 26’10”
• Beam: 8’8”
• Draft: 1’4” (engines up)
• Transom Deadrise: NA
• Weight: 4,800 lb. (without power)
• Fuel Capacity: 129 gal.
• Max Horsepower: 600

SEAVEE 270Z

SeaVee Boats 270Z Bay is available with twin outboards up to 600 hp total. The 27-footer boasts a 9-foot-1-inch beam and reflects a traditional bay-boat interior, with forward and aft casting platforms that sit high and spacious, 1-inch-high toe kicks all around, and a recessed cockpit amidships. The vacuum-resin-infusion process used to build the hull and deck translates into lighter weight and a shallower draft. With 17 degrees of transom deadrise, the double-stepped hull drafts just 1 foot, 3 inches of water at rest. Multiple lifting bodies of the double-stepped Z-hull optimize the trim angle to help smooth the ride. A 116-gallon fuel tank provides ability to fish far and wide. Inside, twin insulated 6-foot-long 75-gallon fish boxes and a stowage space for a 5-gallon bucket and eight life jackets are built into the forward casting platform and drain overboard. A 25-gallon livewell is integrated into the forward cockpit, and a 30-gallon pressurized livewell resides under the aft deck. There’s also a foldout bench seat concealed under the aft deck. The center console has room for flush-mounting a MFD as large as 16 inches. It also features forward seating and a 68-quart cooler underneath. An optional hardtop is available, and it’s engineered to accommodate a second station aloft.

• LOA: 27’0”
• Beam: 9’1”
• Draft: 1’3” (engines up)
• Transom Deadrise: 17 degrees
• Weight: 3,500 lb. (without power)
• Fuel Capacity: 116 gal.
• Max Horsepower: 600

EVERGLADES 273CC

The Everglades 273CC sports twin Yamaha F300 DES outboards, and there’s an option to add the Yamaha Helm Master EX system. Drafting just 1½ feet, the 273CC boasts a wave-slicing variable-deadrise V-hull with 20 degrees transom deadrise, generous freeboard and Everglades RAMCAP construction. A spacious forward casting platform is made possible by a filler placed between the bow seating/lounge modules. Remove the filler for unobstructed access to the bow. The aft platform is abbreviated, but has a pair of jump seats. A 31-gallon livewell resides in the leaning post abaft the deluxe helm seats, along with tackle-storage and bait-prep center, and a sink with a pullout freshwater washdown hose. An insulated 82-gallon fish box resides below the forward deck. The standard hardtop features an aluminum powder-coating frame, LED lighting, an electronics box, four rod holders, and a ski pylon for days when watersports supplant fishing. Everglades equips the 273CC with a tempered-glass windshield that slides downward at the push of button to usher in a breeze on sultry days. A variety of optional marine electronics packages is available from Garmin.

• LOA: 27’3”
• Beam: 9’3”
• Draft: 1’6” (engines up)
• Transom Deadrise: 20 degrees
• Weight: 7,500 lb. (with power)
• Fuel Capacity: 157 gal.
• Max Horsepower: 600

GRADY-WHITE 281 CE

The Grady-White 281 CE is available with twin Yamaha F300 DES outboards. The Yamaha Helm Master EX with the optional Full Maneuverability package is a great option with the twin-outboard setup. The Grady SeaV2 hull on this boat features 16 degrees of transom deadrise that artfully sharpens at cutwater. The sheer sweeps gracefully upward and incorporates a classic Carolina flare for a smooth, dry ride. For fishing inshore, the 281 CE drafts 1 foot, 7 inches. The layout includes a wide-open forward casting platform formed by using the forward snack tabletop and a crescent-shaped insert as fillers. Remove both to create unfettered access to the bow between the forward loungers. The aft platform doubles as a comfy bench seat, but remove the middle backrest and swing the two outer backrests 90 degrees to serve as elevated coamings while standing. The 281 sports a 38-gallon livewell in the leaning post and an integral hardtop with a wraparound, full-height windshield. The 281 CE is also the only bay boat to feature a fully electric-powered side door. This standard feature is called the Sport Deck, and it pivots downward to serve as a cool swim platform or haul a big offshore fish aboard.

• LOA: 27’7”
• Beam: 9’4”
• Draft: 1’7” (engines up)
• Transom Deadrise: 16 degrees
• Weight: 5,650 lb. (without power)
• Fuel Capacity: 160 gal.
• Max Horsepower: 600

BOSTON WHALER 280 DAUNTLESS

The 280 Dauntless is available with twin Mercury 250 or 300 outboards. With a 27-foot-9-inch length overall, 9-foot beam and a transom deadrise of 18 degrees, the 280 can float in 1½ feet of water with the outboards trimmed up. A big bow casting platform converts to bow seats and lounges. There’s a 19-gallon livewell and a large forward fish box with a pump-out. A swim patio deploys from the port side of the aft cockpit for convenient access to the water. An optional gyrostabilizer (a rare feature on a bay boat) minimizes roll. A full-height three-sided glass windshield (with a vent atop the center panel) protects the helm, and the console dash includes Simrad navigation electronics, a JL Audio system and digital switching. The doublewide helm seat has flip-down armrests and flip-up bolsters so you can sit or stand while driving. The helm seat also can electrically convert to a simple leaning post for the captain at the helm while creating two aft-facing seats for crew.

• LOA: 27’9”
• Beam: 9’0”
• Draft: 1’6” (engines up)
• Transom Deadrise: 18 degrees
• Weight: 5,495 lb. (without power)
• Fuel Capacity: 160 gal.
• Max Horsepower: 600

CAYMAS 281 HB

The Caymas 281 HB hybrid bay boat is available with twin Mercury, Suzuki and Yamaha outboards up to 600 hp total. A 200-gallon fuel capacity results in superb cruising range. A Michael Peters double SVVT (Stepped-Vee Ventilated Tunnel) hull delivers speed, a smooth ride, and fuel efficiency. With 18.5 degrees of transom deadrise, the 281 HB drafts 1 foot, 4 inches at rest with the outboard(s) tilted up. Roomy bay-boat-style casting decks lie fore and aft, with a cockpit in between providing 26 inches of gunwale height. Amenities include a pair of 35-gallon livewells, foldout seating under the stern deck, a 45-gallon forward fish box, and roomy stowage lockers for tackle and gear. A tempered-glass windshield with a powder-coated aluminum frame protects the helm that includes a fiberglass leaning post with flip-up bolster seats and a backrest, four rod holders, a pair of stainless-steel drink holders, and a rigging station on the backside. The dash will accommodate a pair of 12-inch multifunction displays. Hardtop options with and without second stations aloft boast powder-coated aluminum pipework.

• LOA: 27’11”
• Beam: 9’1”
• Draft: 1’4” (engines up)
• Transom Deadrise: 18.5 degrees
• Weight: 4,300 lb. (without power)
• Fuel Capacity: 200 gal.
• Max Horsepower: 600

SCOUT 281 XSS

Scout’s 281 XSS is available with twin Mercury 225 DTS V-6s or 300 Pro XS V-8s. Advanced epoxy-infused carbon-fiber and E-glass construction minimizes weight, ensures durability and maximizes performance. With 15.5 degrees of transom deadrise, 281 XSS drafts just 1 foot, 2 inches. Yet the double-stepped hull has a sharp entry to slice through choppy seas. Big casting platforms fore and aft give anglers plenty of elevation. A fuel capacity of 126 gallons offers great fishing range. An 18-gallon livewell integrates into the leaning post, as is a slide-out 65-quart cooler, four rod holders, and lockers for fishing tackle. Under the aft casting deck is a pair of voluminous fish boxes that can be optionally plumbed as livewells. There’s also dedicated fender stowage and a foldout bench seat. A pair of helm chairs cradle the captain and co-pilot, and the helm features a pair of Garmin 10-inch multifunction displays. There’s an additional switch panel in the intricately crafted hardtop, which also includes four Fusion stereo speakers. A three-sided glass windshield shelters the helm area. An inviting forward console lounge features backrests and fold-down armrests. In the bow you’ll find wraparound seating with backrests to create a pair of forward-facing lounges. Classic Scout styling and optional colors add to the pride of ownership.

• LOA: 28’1”
• Beam: 9’4”
• Draft: 1’2” (engines up)
• Transom Deadrise: 15.5 degrees
• Weight: 5,457 lb. (without power)
• Fuel Capacity: 126 gal.
• Max Horsepower: 600

SOLACE 30 HCS

Solace Boats’ 30 HCS (Hybrid Center Step) is powered by twin Mercury Verado 400 V-10 outboards. The hull has a twin-step, variable-deadrise ventilated hull with a high-density PVC composite transom that offers 21 degrees of deadrise. Vacuum-infused carbon-fiber and epoxy laminate construction ensure strength and minimizes weight. The interior layout does away almost entirely with elevated casting platforms to maintain a consistent cockpit depth throughout. A pair of chairs sit atop the cover of the two 30-gallon transom livewells. The backrest of the cushioned seats pivot to let crewmembers face fore or aft. There are walk-throughs on both sides of the transom to access the swim platform, and you’ll find two 35-gallon in-deck fish boxes flanking the cockpit. The console features a seamless integrated three-sided glass windshield with electric rams to fully open the front panel, and a pair of deluxe helm seats cradle captain and co-pilot. The back of the leaning post has a rigging center with a sink, faucet and cutting boards, and a cooler underneath. The forward console has a lounge, and wraparound seating adorns the bow. Entrance to the console lies to port, and the interior provides more than 6 feet of headroom, a vanity with a Corian countertop, a stainless-steel sink, and an electric macerated freshwater toilet. An optional stand-through upper station is available.

• LOA: 29’10”
• Beam: 9’10”
• Draft: 1’7” (engines up)
• Transom Deadrise: 21 degrees
• Weight: 10,000 lb. (with power)
• Fuel Capacity: 187 gal.
• Max Horsepower: 600

REGULATOR 30XO

Regulator’s 30XO features include twin Yamaha F300 DES outboards, and Yamaha’s Helm Master EX joystick control is an available option. You can also order an optional half-tower station, and a convertible tackle and entertainment station. A forward casting platform with deep gunwales enhances safety. The aft casting platform offers jump seats that fold out from underneath. Anglers will love the combined 341 gallons of fish box, livewell and storage space, the 10 rocket launchers on the helm station, and optional under-gunwale locking rod storage. The 30XO offers plenty of seating, with the option to upgrade to diamond-quilted upholstery and add teak accents for a rich, classic look. The standard forward console settee delivers 218 quarts of cooler space, while the flush-folding rear cockpit seats house integrated dual bucket holders, an oversize bilge and a mechanical access center. The dash can accommodate two 16-inch Garmin 8616xsv multifunction displays. Regulator’s proprietary user interface called MyHelm offers easy-to-use functions on the touchscreen. The system even has its own key fob for controlling the Power-Poles, jack plate, spreader lights, light bar and deck lights. With 15 degrees of transom deadrise and a draft of 1 foot, 9 inches, the 30XO can ply inshore waters, but the hull also has the forward-V and heft to safely head offshore.

• LOA: 30”7”
• Beam: 10”2”
• Draft: 1’9” (engines up)
• Transom Deadrise: 15 degrees
• Weight: 9,525 lb. (with power)
• Fuel Capacity: 222 gal.
• Max Horsepower: 600

The post Next Generation High Performance Bay Boats appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Low cost, low maintenance and high function—fishing kayaks offer access to many anglers who might otherwise be on the sidelines. Now, electric motors are opening the sport to even more people regardless of fitness and skills. Kayak manufacturers and electric-motor designers have developed foolproof systems that are easy to install and use, and with improvements in battery technology, you can expect even more kayaks to ride the lightning.

Want to get in the craze? First choose between a trolling motor or electric outboard. Electric outboards are faster, allowing you to zoom to a distant fishing spot—and typically offer better battery life. Trolling motors are more maneuverable, with programmable and virtual anchor features.

But take note: Adding a motor to a kayak essentially turns the paddlecraft into a motorboat, requiring registration, navigation lights and other adherence to other powerboat regulations.

The post The Electrification of Kayaks appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

The traditional arrangement of hull and outboard requires a foot or two of water to operate. Fortunately, humans are an enterprising bunch and have come up with a variety of ways to get to the fish in the skinniest of skinny water.

Mud Motors

As the name implies, these vessels provide propulsion by using a surface-piercing prop to churn up the soil-and-water mixture around the boat. There are two different configurations: long-tail and surface drive. Long-tail motors have a long drive shaft mounted directly to the motor, but this arrangement limits steering. Surface drives look more like a traditional outboard, but the prop stays right on the surface. Both use an air-cooled engine, so you don’t have worry about clogged intakes and overheating motors.

Texas Sleds

This unique watercraft is designed to rip over mere inches of water. Looking like supersize surfboards wearing outlandishly large outboards, these vessels rely on horsepower and jack plates to get skinny. At wide open throttle, which is the way these boats were intended to be driven, they are flying by on the prop and a small section of hull. An intake mounted at the bottom of the skeg keeps cooling water flowing to the motor.

Airboats

Taking skinny to new level, airboats can be piloted where there is no water at all. They use a giant fan, often powered by a small-block automotive engine, to push them across and over just about any slick surface. The low-profile hulls don’t handle rough water well, and they can be prone to tipping. And forget about talking to the person next to you over the drone of the motor and propeller. But they can get you where nothing else can.

Pirogue

This term can refer to a variety of canoes from around the world, but we are talking about the paddle craft that originated in Louisiana’s Cajun country and is immortalized in the Hank Williams classic “Jambalaya.” Originally made from hollowed-out cypress trees, modern versions are crafted from plywood, fiberglass, or rotomolded plastics. These typically have flat bottoms and are paddled, letting them get real skinny.

The post Backwater Boats: Alternative Solutions to Get Skinny appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.