Continental Trailers

When it comes time to ­transport or store your fiberglass investment, you need a trailer from an established brand that you can trust. Continental Trailers has a rich history spanning almost 50 years, marked by a relentless pursuit of cutting-edge technology and a deep understanding of the evolving needs of marine enthusiasts. Through unwavering dedication, the company has consistently delivered durable, reliable and high-performance trailers that cater to a wide range of watercraft. From tilt models that let you launch a skiff nearly anywhere to heavy-duty triple-axle models that can handle boats up to 13,000 pounds, Continental has you covered. continentaltrailers.com —Joe Albanese

Siren 3 Pro

Siren Marine, a sister brand of Yamaha, keeps you connected to your boat even when you’re miles away. The Siren 3 Pro integrates with a number of sensors so you can keep an eye on bilge-water levels, bilge-pump activity, temperature, battery levels, shore-power status and more. You can monitor the boat’s location, tell if doors are opened, sense motion, even know when a cover is unsnapped—all through the Siren Marine mobile app. Sign up for a cellular plan to send unlimited data between the device and the app, or get the SirenSat device and plan for areas without cell service. $796; wholesalemarine.com —JA

Lewmar Axis ­Shallow-Water Anchor

The new Axis Shallow Water Anchor from Lewmar, a Lippert company, gives boating anglers control over their positioning in depths up to 7 feet by deploying quietly in just 8 seconds with the push of a button. It features an electric linear actuator, which means no hydraulic pumps or hoses, making it lightweight and easily installed. The installation kit includes mounting hardware, a control box, an auto resetting fuse with a waterproof fuse holder and a convenient wireless remote control. Despite its light weight, the Axis can keep boats up to 26 feet or 4,500 pounds in place. Available in white and black, the unit is sealed to IP68M standards to survive life on the seas. $1,599; lewmar.com —Jim Hendricks

Shakespeare Dorsal VHF Antenna

Check out the unique shape of the Dorsal 5912-D-VHF antenna from Shakespeare. The low-profile, aerodynamic, fin-shaped design is perfect for boats that can’t easily accommodate a pole-like antenna. The surface-mount Dorsal won’t interfere with style lines or anglers casting for fish, yet it is suitable for VHF ranges up to 10 miles. The ABS body—available in white or black to match any boat’s color scheme—­measures only 2.75 inches tall by 4 inches long by 2.3 inches wide, and has a rubber base to seal out moisture. It includes a 26-foot coaxial cable and PL-259 plug, and requires a 1/2-inch hole to install on a horizontal surface. Complete with a two-year warranty. $109.99; westmarine.com —JH

Rupp Top Gun Vector Electric Outrigger ­System

Deploy your outriggers with the push of a button using the Rupp Top Gun Vector Electric Outrigger System. The low-profile keypad lets you precisely position a pair of 1½-inch outrigger poles, individually or in unison, without ever leaving the helm. The heavy-duty stainless-steel Vector smart outrigger bases have no hydraulic ­components, making them compact for flush installs on hardtops. Because they don’t require a hole, they can be installed over obstructions inside a top or enclosed helm. The 24-volt DC-powered unit is nearly silent, and a 12-to-24-volt adapter is available. $8,500; ruppmarine.com —JA

ICOM IC-M510BB Black-Box VHF

Icom’s new IC-M510BB represents the latest in VHF technology, expanding VHF accessibility throughout the boat. All operations, including DSC, can be made from the CommandMic, allowing the VHF radio unit to be installed out-of-sight and as far as 60 feet from the handset. Up to three CommandMics can be connected to the head unit, which allows it to double as an onboard intercom system on large boats. NMEA 2000 networking capabilities provide plug-and-play data communication with other electronics. The radio can also share GNSS (GPS) position, AIS and DSC calls with other onboard equipment. The unit has a last-call voice-recording function that automatically saves up to two minutes of a recent incoming call. A built-in 15-watt amplifier increases the output to an external hailer speaker, and there’s a built-in hailer function that also sounds foghorn patterns. $799; icomamerica.com —JH

Shockwave S5 Sentinel Suspension Base

Take the bumps out of speedy runs to the fishing hole with Shockwave’s S5 Sentinel Suspension Base. This high-tech seat base provides a smoother, safer and more comfortable ride using the latest from Fox, a leading producer of shock absorbers for the motorsports world. The base offers 4 inches of vertical and 1½ inches of forward travel to take the sting out of impacts so you can fish longer and harder. The S5 Sentinel is adjustable on the fly, so you can tune rebound and compression rates to the day’s conditions. Available in white or black, built with corrosion-resistant marine-grade components for a long life, and compatible with just about any marine seat. $1,190; shockwaveseats.com —JA

OceanLED Explore XFM E6 Underwater LED

Underwater lights add serious fish-attracting abilities to your boat. They also enhance ­visibility and look pretty cool too. OceanLED Explore XFM E6 Underwater LED Lights use an innovative, efficient reflector optic to produce a focused, 20-degree beam that penetrates further underwater. In addition, a 90-degree top beam lights up a large area of water, flooding it with light. The Explore E6 puts out 11,000 lumens per fixture, and is available in single, dual, or full RGBW colors. Control the lights with a push-button switch, touch-sensitive buttons, or a handheld remote. Installation is easy, thanks to the built-­in driver that minimizes the size of the unit and simplified clamping kit. $1,924 and up; wholesalemarine.com —JA

Seakeeper Ride System

Ride can eliminate up to 70 percent of pitch and roll using a pair of rotary actuators (one on each side of the bottom of the transom) that adjust at mind-­boggling speeds. The actuator modules, which attach using high-strength adhesive, eliminating the need to drill mounting holes, interface with electronic three-axis-sensing hardware that understands how the boat is behaving in terms of pitch, roll and yaw in real time. Software sends commands at light speed to the rotary actuators to instantaneously control bow oscillation and keep the boat from rolling from side to side while underway. It also has the ability to “learn” the boat and sea conditions to deliver the most comfortable and fuel-efficient ride. A compact keypad on the helm lets the captain turn the system off and on, but Ride also networks with compatible multifunction displays that offer graphic illustrations of operational parameters and touchscreen control. Ride is offered in three models with varying blade sizes, ­including Ride 450 for boats 19 to 26 feet ($4,500), Ride 525 for boats 27 to 30 feet ($7,500), and Ride 600 for boats 31 to 35 feet ($10,500); seakeeper.com —JH

Garmin inReach Mini 2 Marine Bundle

The new inReach Mini 2 Marine Bundle from Garmin is a satellite communication and navigation device with two-way messaging and SOS capabilities bundled with a helm mount. In an emergency, boaters can trigger an interactive SOS message to the Garmin International Emergency Response Coordination Center, which tracks their location and notifies the most appropriate response agency for their unique situation. The inReach Mini 2 automatically records activities and passively stores routes traveled. The TracBack features guide boaters back to their point of origin, helping them find their way even if a thick fog rolls in. Measuring 4 inches tall by 2 inches wide, the IPX7 waterproof-rated device takes up minimal space, and wirelessly pairs with Garmin GPSMap series chart plotters and quatix 7 series marine GPS smartwatches. The bundle includes an internal, rechargeable lithium battery and a 12-volt power cable. $449.99, with plans as low as $11.95/month; garmin.com —JH

Battle Born Batteries Trolling Motor Kit

Lithium ion batteries are one of the fastest-growing segments of boat technology, and for good reason. The new battery chemistry holds more power in a lighter container. If you have a trolling motor or other high-draw device onboard, consider one of the new 100Ah Trolling Motor kits from Battle Born Batteries. They have a kit for you whether you have a 12V, 24V or 36V trolling motor, complete with a smart charger. Battle Born Batteries can handle the vibrations that come from life on the high seas, and have a water-resistant seal, perfect for marine applications. $1,008 to $3,024; battlebornbatteries.com —JA

Airmar Medium-­Frequency Ultra-Wide-Beam Transducers

Airmar Technology Corp. has introduced a new line of three medium ultra-wide transducers featuring single-frequency elements. These chirp-ready medium-frequency (60 to 100 kHz) transducers have 1 kW output and feature a unique concave, ceramic-­array design that delivers an incredible ultra-wide beam width ranging from 57 to 73 degrees port and starboard, and a 16-degree average beam width fore and aft. Ideal for anglers seeking species down to 1,300 feet, the new medium B175MW and SS175MW ultra-wide transducers are low-profile, tilted element models that also include water-temperature sensors. The TM185MW ultra-wide uses the same ceramic array in a urethane-bodied transducer with a stainless-steel transom bracket. Tilted-­element models are available in 0-, ­12- and 20-degree angles. When the new medium ultra-wide models are paired with other Airmar models, anglers are equipped with a broad set of frequencies (low, medium-wide, high-wide) to find fish deep and shallow. westmarine.com —JH

Starbrite Products

Starbrite has everything you need to clean, wash, wax, polish, shine and otherwise protect your favorite vessel. Its line of boat washes is perfect for use after every outing, and the variety of hull cleaners makes quick work of scum lines, fish blood or whatever hard-to-remove stain that makes its way onto the boat. A full suite of polishes and waxes protects fiberglass and other surfaces. Its metal-care products keep brightwork shiny, and teak-protection products extend the life of wood accents. You can even keep your bilge fresh with a variety of products. Starbrite has you covered in the offseason too, with mold and mildew control that works even under the confine of shrink-wrap. wholesalemarine.com ­—JA

The post 2024 Boat Buyers Guide: Gear appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Just how big a fish finder do you need? It’s a question just about every boat-owning angler will ask themselves when they buy a new boat, and again when they upgrade their electronics. It’s really, really easy to boil down this question to a one-line answer: the biggest your boat’s helm can accommodate. Period. If you have the room, multiple fish finders are even better.

Cost Equation

Simple, right? OK, now let’s pick apart that assertion a bit. Obviously, the downside to getting a bigger fish finder is additional cost. But ask yourself: What percentage of your boat’s cost would an upsize unit amount to? A pretty good guess is 2 to 4 percent. Next question: Would you want to save 2 to 4 percent on your boat’s cost if you knew it meant you’d catch significantly fewer fish for the lifetime of the rig? Because that’s exactly what’s likely to happen.

Big-Screen Effect

What you have to remember is that you’re trying to represent a vast area of water on a comparatively minute screen. If you’re fishing in 50 feet of water and trying to compress the snapshot of that swath of H₂O onto a 5-inch screen, 30-inch fish will be little more than tiny dots. Trying to spot baitfish will be like trying to spot fairy dust. Oh, and you say you’d like to see the chart plotter at the same time too? That screen just shrank again.

HD Analogy

Do you remember when you upgraded your TV to a jumbo high-definition version, put on the Nature Channel, and discovered that you could suddenly see the hairs on an ant’s leg? The difference is just as stark—and just as illuminating—with a grand-size fish-finder screen.

Easier Navigation

In case we haven’t convinced you yet, note that navigating is a lot easier with a larger screen that allows you to zoom out and still see details such as contour lines and depths. You’ll be more accurate when plotting without having to zoom in and out to find markers and channels. 

How Big Is Big?

Just how big is big enough? Different folks have different opinions, but for most serious anglers anything under 9 inches is usable only for the most basic applications. Upping the ante to 12 inches or larger will make a massive difference. The bottom line is: Bigger is always better. So, stop asking how big a fish finder you need. Instead, measure that helm station and find out just how big a fish finder you can ­possibly put on there.

The post How Big a Fish Finder Do I Really Need? appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

George Poveromo took up residence on the Salt Water Sportsman masthead way back in 1983, at only 23 years old. He is renowned for his flats, inshore and offshore fishing prowess, leading the Salt Water Sportsman National Seminar Series for 35 years now. One of his specialties is sailfish, landing more in a season than most will in a lifetime. Want to catch like George? Add some of his sailfish must-haves to your boat. 

Good Sonar and Great Charts 

“Both are a must for ­locating reef bottom jutting out into current, wrecks, bait ­concentrations and surface-­temperature readings. Learn to look for places where north-­flowing blue current washes over structure like this.”

A High-Powered ­Livewell

“My twin 34-gallon livewells are fed by a Hooker sea chest. Two 4,500 gph pumps circulate the water inside the chest itself, eliminating air infusion, dry pumps, and pump failures at all boatspeeds. The volume and velocity of water feeding each well, important for certain bait types, is controlled by a dial on my console. Another huge plus: The pumps are external and easily replaced.”

A Whole Lot of Rod ­Holders 

“A total of 26 gunwale-based Lee rod holders enables us to slow-troll live baits or drift a full spread complete with dual kites and flat lines. For trolling, I’ve got two 30-degree Lee swivel rod holders and one 15-degree Lee flush-mounted holder per side and within the aft gunwales. From there, eight more Lee holders are positioned along each gunwale and aimed seaward for drifting baits. A pair of Lee swivel rod holders occupy the bow, giving me the freedom to pivot as needed. Four ­zero-degree Lee holders are within the transom cap.”

A Way to Spread Baits 

“Outriggers are ideal for spreading live baits and kites when slow-trolling. They’re excellent for placing additional baits. For example, my Lee 20-foot carbon-fiber poles and 15-foot carbon-fiber ­center rigger are each rigged to accommodate two baits per pole. When you use all three riggers, you can spread out six live baits behind the boat. Add in a pair of weighted flat lines, and you’re up to eight baits (with more if you add a fishing kite).”

Tridents for Kite Rigs 

“Trident rod holders are excellent for keeping outfits close to a fishing kite for easy station management. Strategically positioned gunwale rod holders can accomplish the same. To power electric kite reels, four 12-volt Hubble electrical outlets are positioned under the gunwales—two in the bow and a pair in the cockpit. That lets us drift or slow-troll a single kite off the stern, or drift a pair of kites utilizing both the bow and cockpit stations.”

Slow Your Drift

“To counter a fast drift and give baits more soak time within a zone, deploy a ­parachute anchor sized to your vessel. For example, I keep a 15-foot, 20-pound ­Para-Tech Sea Anchor Parachute within the console of my 33-foot Mako.”

The post Set Sail appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

I remember when a run to the offshore fishing grounds went something like this: Get to the boat the night before to load up. Then settle in for a long, slow chug through the inky darkness. After eight or 10 hours of creeping along and taking turns at the helm, a faint horizon would materialize along the hem of the purple-gray sky, and our fishing day would officially begin.

Today, a new breed of high-speed fishing boat has created a new paradigm for serious offshore anglers. Owners of these powerful machines are likely to hop on board in the morning, fire up the four or five high-performance outboards sitting across the ample transom, and motor out of the harbor to the oohs and aahs of onlookers and envious anglers.

When the captain reaches open water and opens the throttles on up to 3,000 hp of outboard power, the true appeal of these speed machines becomes apparent. With a jaw-dropping amount of power, high-tech hulls rocket to offshore destinations in a fraction of the time required in yesteryears. Now running 100 miles or more, catching a load of fish, and returning home on the same day is not only possible but common. 

Fishing-boat brands such as Contender, Invincible, Regulator, Scout, SeaVee, Yellowfin and others have broken the mold on what a center-console outboard-powered fishing boat can achieve, blasting through size and performance barriers. This new crop of boats offers the dimensions and seaworthiness of old-fashioned sport-fishing yachts but can also reach 60 mph and cruise all day at 40 to 50 mph without breaking a sweat. And they do this with surprisingly good fuel economy, providing the range to go long and fish hard all day.

However, there’s a lot more to this new class of boats than just size and speed. Boatbuilders are competing to introduce more-comfortable and -capable offshore machines, adding new features, interior comfort, and amenities without compromising the open layout and unfettered fishing access that define the breed. Owners are attracted by these vessels’ versatility as well. Though supersize, a center-console is still a center-console. If the mood strikes, owners can still pull up on a sandbar with everybody else, kick back with a drink, and enjoy the party with their smaller cousins.

When you first see one of these sleek and stylish boats, your eyes are drawn to the gleaming engine cowlings that seemingly fill every inch of transom space. It’s clear that the entire class of vessels couldn’t exist without quantum leaps in outboard-motor power and technology from builders such as Yamaha. There are different theories about which came first, the growing number of high-­powered outboards or the ever-larger hulls designed for outboard power. Conventional wisdom is that the evolution of more-powerful outboards led to the development of wider, longer and more-advanced hulls. However, there are also those who believe that evolving consumer demand for simplicity and ease of use was simultaneously pushing builders to redefine the center-console and walkaround fishing-boat classes. 

Perhaps we should call it a tie. “The evolution of outboard motors has resulted in even more powerful, reliable and feature-rich powerplants, enabling boat sizes in this popular segment to grow to overall lengths of 40 feet and beyond,” says John Caballero, sales and marketing director for SeaVee Boats. At the same time, he acknowledges an existing preference for simpler boats. “The market discovered long ago how practical a center-­console boat is in terms of its utility and generally lower maintenance requirements.” He highlights the company’s 42-foot 420Z and 45-foot 450Z as ideal models for meeting this need, providing the amenities to enhance the fishing experience and the safety and comfort for all on board. Additionally, both models can be highly customized to suit the owner’s needs and preferences.

“While supersize center-­consoles are by no means simple machines, they are undoubtedly less complex than multi­stateroom sport-fishing yachts,” says Rob Sabin, southeast sales manager for Contender Boats. “This typically translates to lower maintenance bills and less time in the yard. It also gives owners the ability to run and maintain their own vessel.”

Contender considers its 44-foot 44FA (Fisharound) the perfect fishing platform for extended adventures. Built on the center-console 44ST hull, the 44FA features a large berth, enclosed head, and kitchenette. It carries 575 gallons of fuel along with 70 gallons of water, and can be equipped with a generator, AC, ice makers, water heaters and gyrostabilization.

“Boats are getting ­bigger and more powerful, but that’s not all,” says Matt Arnholt, marketing manager for ­Yellowfin Yachts. They have been able to maximize efficiency and fishability while incorporating various features, electronics in particular, ­Arnholt points out. 

While the 36 Offshore continues as Yellowfin’s most popular model, anglers are also turning to the 39 Offshore, 42 Offshore and 54 Offshore, Arnholt observes. The 54 delivers the brand’s styling, stepped hull, fuel efficiency, and construction with features such as a fully equipped galley, queen berth, and diesel generator. Its long list of available options includes a bow thruster, a Quick dynamic stabilizer, and a variety of hardtop and tower possibilities.

“Many of our customers used to own large sport-­fishermen,” says Alan Lang, ­director of sales and ­marketing for Scout Boats, which raised eyebrows across the industry when it previewed its 670 LXF: a 67-foot LOA cross between a center-console and a superyacht due for launch in 2024. “They are ready to move to a center-console for the ease of operation, and the ability to drive it themselves and take care of it themselves. Outboard power not only makes our boats fast and agile, but it also makes maintenance much easier.” Multiple high-horsepower engines also provide owners with peace of mind. According to Lang, Scout’s current flagship—the 530 LXF—will easily get on plane and get you home at 50 mph, even with one engine down. 

“The biggest things driving these supersize center-consoles are high ­horsepower, along with the great weight-to-horsepower ratio,” says Dan Freer, senior director of engineering for Invincible, which offers both monohull and catamaran models. 

Invincible’s 46-foot cat is offered in both a center-­console and pilothouse configuration. Even with the added comforts of two sleeping berths, interior seating, air conditioning and a generator, the 46 Pilothouse stays true to the brand with 360-degree fishability. The new flagship of Invincible’s monohull fleet is the 43 Open Fisherman. While the cockpit layout emphasizes all-around fishing room, the design includes a cabin with a full sleeping berth, a vanity sink and a head for extended angling journeys.   

Builders agree that the trend will continue, even if the overall size of the boats eventually tops out. Consumer demand and outboard-engine development will continue to drive future innovation. What this future will look like is anyone’s guess, but it will certainly be one hell of a ride.

The post Supersize Center-Consoles Expand Angling Horizons appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

You run offshore on a bluebird morning, hoping to score some tuna or fly a halyard full of release flags. You throttle back near a beautiful color change and break out the tackle. You’re all smiles and confidence—until you open the livewell and see a mass of floaters. Nothing ruins a fishing trip faster than a fouled-up livewell. But if you set up your system properly, you’ll minimize the chance of such a day-shortening mishap.

“The main thing in a livewell system is getting the water out,” says Capt. RT Trosset of Key West, Florida. “It’s easy to get water in, but you need to get water out to achieve maximum flow.” Trosset runs a Yellowfin 36, and says that the builder has optimized the diameter and size of its drain hoses, and has installed significant drain systems in the livewell floors, where waste and scales accumulate.

To power his 50-gallon transom and cockpit wells, he uses a sea chest with three Shurflo 2,000 gph livewell pumps screwed into the top of a splitter box. Sea chests, which generally feature clear acrylic lids and remain constantly flooded with seawater, vent air from the system. Aeration is a common issue for offshore boats that can fly off wave tops at high speeds. When air enters, it can create air locks that block water from entering the livewells.

Most sea chests, such as those used on SeaVee boats, house pumps inside to keep them cooler, but Trosset says that his pumps mount on the outside. While this helps facilitate pump replacement, he admits that all pumps are difficult to change. (And now you know why every boatyard has at least one employee with really long arms.)

High-speed pickups beneath Trosset’s boat funnel water to the sea chest through 2-inch hoses. To vent air, a 3/8-inch hose runs from the top of the chest.

Each pump, whether inside or outside the sea chest, features a valve to regulate the flow of water to the wells. Allow too much, and water might overflow and cascade into the cockpit. By contrast, not enough flow lowers the water level, which in turn makes the water slosh whenever the boat runs at speed, damaging the baits.

“In South Florida, we like to pressurize our wells,” says Capt. Eddie Juan, a SeaVee factory sales rep and tournament angler. “We have a Y valve that we can shut to close the drain so that the water fills the well, all the way to the lid.”

Typically, Trosset fills his livewells before running offshore. Based on the outing’s game plan, he either separates different bait species, or fills both wells with a single species and transfers baits throughout the day. “You can’t mix little baits with big baits, and you can’t mix ballyhoo,” he explains.

Using 2,000 gph pumps theoretically enables the water in his livewells to refresh 40 times per hour, or once every 90 seconds. However, wherever a pipe bends or rises, power and pressure drop. So, more realistically, the water in his livewells recirculates every two minutes or so.

A general rule of thumb suggests that livewells should replenish every 10 minutes. But for some captains and tournament anglers, more flow is better.

For Juan, a little less is best. “I don’t like 2,000 gph pumps. They bring in too much water and use a lot of power. In my opinion, 1,500 gph pumps are ideal,” he says. Of course, that also depends on the distance between the livewell and the pumps. “If you have to pump water from the transom to the bow, you might need a 2,000 gph pump,” he adds.

Usually, two round or ­oval-shaped wells—of at least 40 gallons each—will support plenty of live bait for most offshore anglers, Juan believes. If a well lacks a clear lid or side window, it should have interior lighting. Otherwise, complete darkness can stress the baits.

While some captains swear by livewell interior colors such as blue or black, Juan prefers his factory-white gelcoat. “To me, baits get too dark in a dark livewell. Goggle-eyes, for instance, change their color to match their environment, so they’ll lose their yellow line.”

The post Why You Need a Sea Chest appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

After a stint in the U.S. Coast Guard as a small-boat coxswain and marine-fisheries law enforcement officer, Capt. McMurray founded One More Cast Charters. For the better part of the past two decades, he has been chasing tuna off Long Island’s South Shore, priding himself on his ability to catch tuna using spinning gear—there’s no trolling on his boat. Here’s what he looks for in a boat to run-and-gun some of the fastest fish in the ocean.

Deadrise

“Unlike Cape Cod or the Outer Banks, our tuna generally aren’t close, which means 60- to 80-mile runs in sometimes not-so-nice conditions. The more deadrise you have, the more that boat is going to cut through chop and get you there without pounding. But there’s a Catch-22 here: The greater the deadrise, the more the boat is going to rock at rest. Getting to the tuna grounds without beating my crew to a pulp is more important to me than comfort (rocking and rolling) once we’re on the grounds. So I want a boat with a lot of deadrise, like 24 or 25 degrees of it.”

How Much Beam?

“Of course, deck space is good. But again, there are trade-offs here. The bigger and wider boats are heavy, and that makes approaching or running-and-gunning surface-feeding or waking tuna problematic—it’s kind of hard not to put them down when you’re throwing 4 feet of wake. I generally want 9 to 10 feet of beam. Any more than that, it’s kind of a different boat, better suited for trolling.”

How Many Engines?

“Unless you’re fishing within sight of shore, you want more than one motor. My first offshore boat had twin 150s, which I consider the minimum. Twin 300s are optimal in my opinion. Boats with three engines are often able to get on plane with only two working motors, so you won’t have a long slow ride back to the dock.”

Electronics

“I have 2 kW transducers on all of my offshore boats, with chirp. They all tend to read bottom and fish pretty well. Just remember that your sounder reads only what’s directly beneath you, not what’s around you and on the surface—I’ve caught ­plenty of fish when we weren’t marking anything. Still, it’s good to have a solid sounder and transducer, if for no other reason than it increases confidence levels, and lets you know, of course, that there are indeed fish around, even if you might not be catching. 

“Radar is an absolute necessity. Even if you don’t sail because of fog, you can be 60 miles offshore when the fog unexpectedly rolls in. And of course, if you want to be on the tuna grounds by dawn (the magic hours), you’re going to have to run in the dark. And you really need to be able to see stuff before you hit it, or it hits you. Get radar. It might save your life, and mine. 

“Integrating AIS on your chart plotter is important. You can usually do that through a good VHF radio that comes with an AIS ­transponder. That will help you locate commercial ­traffic, specifically trawler fleets. I don’t think it’s a big secret that tunas hold around squid and scallop fleets, eating the bycatch. 

“While it’s not what I’d call a necessity, FLIR or any other sort of night vision is extremely helpful. I use it, along with radar, and a spotlight. I’ve been doing this long enough to understand that you can’t depend on any of the three really, but all three together greatly reduces the odds of hitting something.”

Other Must-Haves

Rod holders. A lot of them. I have 30 to 40 on each boat. While that sounds like a lot, if you’re serious, you need a wide range of popping and jigging rods for all types of conditions and size classes of fish. I’m talking about vertical rod holders that are not in the gunwales. You need to be able to get to rods quickly if all of the sudden you start marking fish, or if a pod of dolphin show, or if tuna pop up. I don’t want anything in the way of casting when those sudden opportunities occur. I keep jig rods vertically along the port and starboard of the center console, and popping rods in the leaning-post rocket launcher. 

“A satellite communicator is a must-have! It allows you to communicate and share intel with your friends and colleagues while underway without blowing up spots on the VHF. And it allows you to communicate with your wife so that she doesn’t call the Coast Guard when you’re 80 miles offshore chasing fish when you were supposed to be home hours ago.”

Creature Comforts

“I don’t know how people fish without bolsters. Sometimes you’re fighting fish for over an hour, and it really helps to be able to lean against a soft bolster. Beanbags are an absolute necessity. They give anglers a place to sleep on the way out and the way back.”

The post Things To Look For in a Jig-and-Pop Boat appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Every small-boat angler knows that it’s tough to achieve the optimal trolling spread. Bigger boats have an obvious edge. Their broader beam, higher freeboard, and greater number of strategically located rod holders enable the deployment and easy management of extra lines. Meanwhile, anglers aboard 25- to 35-footers are always on the lookout for alternate trolling patterns and equipment that will boost their results.

To explore some options, I talked with a tournament captain and veteran anglers from companies such as Tigress, Taco, DuBro, AFTCO and Tournament Cable, which specialize in trolling booms, tridents, release clips, and other aftermarket tools and accessories that you can add to your boat to raise and hook more fish on the troll.

To extend the width of the trolling spread, skippers with a big enough boat (32-plus feet) can use outriggers as long as 24 feet and run two or three lines plus a dredge off each. Smaller boats are limited to 18- to 20-foot riggers, which generally lack the backbone to drag a multitiered dredge. Some opt for towing a dredge from a stern cleat, but Tigress and Tournament Cable offer a better solution: 4-, 6- or 8-foot dredge/teaser booms that let you move the teaser out of the prop wash and into clean water.

Made from aluminum pipe or fiberglass, such booms fit into a gunwale rod holder or attach to a bent-butt section placed in a holder. Some feature a heavy tow line that runs through a pulley at the end of the boom. The Tigress dredge boom can be equipped with an electric reel. All come with safety and stay lines to alleviate strain on both the rod holder and the boom.

A downrigger boom can also pull a dredge or teaser while keeping it away from the hull and the motors. Attach the downrigger ball and you’ll add depth. Some pros advise substituting the downrigger cable with 300- or 400-pound Spectra braid to reduce drag and the ensuing strain on the boom.

Adding a center rigger to the boat’s T-top is another way to expand your spread, and it creates a better presentation for a bait run well behind the transom. It also affords the option to run a second line and place a bait closer to the boat to complete a desirable V-shaped spread coming off the prop wash. Available with bolt-on or clamp-on mounts, these telescoping outrigger-­style poles range from 8 to 16 feet in length and are made from aluminum or carbon fiber.

Though not quite as effective, adding a clamp-on or welded rod holder in the center of the T-top’s aft-facing edge provides similar benefits. Of course, clamp-on rod holders can be mounted at various angles in other areas of the T-top to spread trolling lines, a tactic popularized by kingfish tournament competitors. 

Release clips and simple rubber bands also help add lines and change bait presentations. DuBro’s downrigger release allows you to stack lines at various depths along the downrigger cable or planer tether. 

A release clip can be used to run a flat line from one of the transom eyes to fish a bait close to the water’s surface. Some captains thread a piece of heavy mono through the clip and the transom eye, then crimp it to form a loop. AFTCO sells its Roller Troller, a flat-line clip that takes the rigging out of the equation and features a roller to prevent line chafing.  

With these options, even on a small center-console, you can troll more lines or simply widen your spread for added coverage. But don’t go overboard. The number of lines you can successfully troll depends on more than your boat’s size. Also take into account the size and experience of your crew, the weather, and the presence of floating grass. Pulling four baits effectively beats messing with eight that don’t swim right and lines that constantly tangle. 

The post Boost Trolling Coverage and Success appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

If you’re planning to shop—and possibly plunk down hard-earned money—for a ­­center-console fishing machine this year, consider the following. Here is my must-have list of five features you cannot do without on your new pride and joy.

Enough Power

Whenever I write a ­review for a center-­console with an advertised price that includes a power package that’s inadequate, I add the advice: Don’t do it! Underpowering a center-console is the worst mistake a boat buyer can make. Not only will it struggle to get on plane, but the helmsman will also have a hard time maintaining a safe speed in rough water. You also will get hammered when you trade it in or try to resell it. Go online and find a review of a boat with the engine package you are considering or ask the ­dealer. If the top speed is around 40 mph, it’s a dog. In my experience, the magic minimum top-speed number for most center-consoles today is around 50 mph.

Tall Gunwales

I used to fish with a friend of mine in the Florida Keys who had a popular 25-foot offshore boat that had a rear interior gunwale height of only 22 inches. In seas above 2 feet, my knees were sore as hell by the end of the day from bumping against the side of the boat. And at least once, I felt like I might fall in. For safety and comfort, there should be a minimum height of 26 inches, with more toward the bow. Toe rails increase safety when stretching to gaff or net a fish. Padded bolsters are a big bonus because they give you something to lean into when you’re battling big pelagics.

A Real-Deal Livewell

Tiny livewells serve as a dead giveaway that a boat wasn’t designed by someone who fishes. The primary livewell on an offshore vessel should hold a minimum of 20 gallons, and 30-plus gallons would be even better. Secondary baitwells can be smaller because they are used as a convenience to cut the distance for anglers at the opposite end of the boat. Livewells should be round or oval, and with strong recirculating pumps. Pumps that reside within a sea chest are the gold standard for offshore center-consoles to prevent air from entering the line when running. The lids should be clear and have a hydraulic dam or friction hinges to prevent banging shut. ­Aquarium-style livewells with clear sides for bait monitoring are also a plus. Consider supplemental aeration systems; these can help keep even the most delicate baitfish lively on long runs.

360 Degrees of Fishability

One of the primary reasons for owning a center-console instead of a dual-console or express boat is the ability to fight a fish or cast from any location around the boat. Any obstruction such as fixed seating on the perimeter can hinder an angler. Fold-down stern benches or flip-up jump seats add seating without taking up space. Large consoles are currently the rage to offer enough real estate for large electronics displays and roomy head compartments, but when they limit walkaround space, it becomes a problem. There should be at least 20 inches in between the gunwale and the console for comfortable transit fore and aft.

Adequate Rod Storage

A good indicator if a center-console is designed as a serious fishing machine is its number of rod holders. If a boat has more cup holders than rod holders, it’s a dayboat. On smaller center-consoles, there should be a minimum of three gunwale holders per side and at least four in the stern, with storage racks under the gunwale. T-tops should have at least four rocket launchers, and if they are high above the deck, there should be some sort of step up to help access them. Some of the better-designed boats can safely stash as many as 60 rods out of the way and ready.

The post 5 Features Every Center-Console Should Have appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Joe Albanese grew up on New York’s Long Island, fishing and clamming in the salt marshes and along open beaches. During his career in conservation, he piloted a variety of vessels through ice fields and along waterways from Alaska to metropolitan New York. But when it comes to chasing stripers, he has developed some distinct ­preferences over the years.

Boat Type

“I prefer center-consoles for my striper fishing, with the open layout lending itself to a variety of fishing techniques. From fly-fishing to light tackle to live bait, it can do it all. Unless you’re going to stick to the marshes, consider an 18-footer as the bare ­minimum. And if your commute involves an inlet that can get snotty, a 22-footer is better. But if you want to take advantage of the inshore tuna bite that has developed in the Northeast in recent years, look at the crop of capable 25-plus-footers that can run out to the 3-mile line and beyond.”

Motors

“I tend to be pretty heavy-handed with the throttle, so I like as much horsepower as I can get. I start my season early and go right through the end, so the ability to outrun weather is important to me. Even if you don’t feel the need for speed, having the most horsepower a hull is rated for will let you cruise at a lower rpm, which should provide some fuel savings.”

On Draft

“However big a boat you choose, you need to consider its draft. If you want to play in the creeks and flats, you need a boat that draws 15 inches or less. But even a heavy 22-footer will still draft less than 16 inches, which should get you just about anywhere that stripers swim. If you plan on spending more time in the ocean than in the bays, you might want to select a hull with more transom deadrise, around 20 degrees or more. You’ll lose some of the shallow-water capabilities, but you’ll be able to cut through waves and chop better.”

Trolling Motors

“In my opinion, there’s no better way to work the creeks than with the aid of a trolling motor. You can come off plane far from where you plan on fishing, and use the trolling motor to sneak into position, getting back into places that you probably couldn’t with your outboard. Trolling motors also excel for probing dock lines, letting you plod along without disturbing fish. Plus, the virtual-anchor feature available on most models lets you easily work a piece of structure or pinch point like a bridge.”

Livewells

“As primarily a fly and light-tackle angler, I don’t need a ton of live-bait capacity. That said, it’s hard to beat the excitement of live-lining bunker for the outsize stripers that have become so common in recent years. My Robalo has a well-designed 15-gallon livewell that can keep eight menhaden lively throughout the day, but if you are a dedicated live-baiter, you might want something with a greater capacity.”

Electronics

“I still find many of my spots using land ranges, but it’s hard to beat the navigation and fish-finding capabilities of today’s electronics. I have a Garmin multifunction display on my helm, which allows me to access a variety of maps and navigation tools via the touchscreen interface. I can also choose from a couple of different sonar frequencies that give me a clear picture of the bottom in depths from single to triple digits.”

Rod Holders

“I tend to head out with fewer sticks than most, but when you put a couple of people on board, rod holders disappear quickly. I like undergunwale storage to keep rods out of the way, particularly fly rods. I keep most of the other rods clustered in vertical holders on the sides of the console, but having a few on the back of the helm seating provides a good place to stash a rod in a hurry. A few gunwale rod ­holders are useful for dead-sticking and the like.”

The post How to Choose the Ideal Striper Boat appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

This could be the shortest column in marine-journalism history. “To determine how much horsepower to put on your boat’s transom, find the manufacturer’s maximum horsepower specification, and whatever number is listed there is the total power to install.” While that’s a good rule of thumb, there might be times when less is more. 

Go for the Max?

One good reason to get the most power possible lies in durability and longevity. The greater the horsepower, the less an engine has to work to keep the boat on plane with greater efficiency. Let’s look at an example. The Pathfinder 2005 TRS with a Yamaha F115 will have to operate at 5,500 rpm to reach 36.5 mph and will get 3.5 mpg. Power the same boat with an F150, and it reaches 35 mph at 4,500 rpm and will get 3.9 mpg, according to the manufacturer-­supplied performance data. This example also illustrates that the notion that less horsepower equals better fuel economy isn’t always true. Top speed is another reason to max out the ponies. More horsepower translates to a higher top speed. Sometimes the difference is dramatic, with a difference of 20 miles per hour or more. Then there’s the resale value. If a buyer is looking at two identical boats and one has more power than the other, they will typically choose and often pay more for the more-powerful boat.

Mo’ Power, Mo’ Money

Often, taking even a small leap in power can cost big bucks. The standard engine on the Blackfin 232DC is the Mercury 225XL FourStroke, but bumping it just 25 hp to the Mercury 250XL will cost $4,921 more. In this case, the big jump comes by moving from the 3.4L family of V-6 engines to a 4.6L V-8 for the 250. When reviewing the build-a-boat feature found on most manufacturers’ websites, compare the cost with different engines, and look for the sweet spot where the least amount of money buys the biggest jump in horsepower. Often, the max-power option is an exotic engine that comes with a larger-than-­proportional price tag.

Less Power Equals Less Weight?

Sometimes, adding more horsepower changes the weight drastically, but an increase in horsepower often adds no weight because it is done via programming the engine’s electronic control unit. For years, Mercury’s supercharged Verados all shared the same 2.6L inline-six-cylinder block, even though the horsepower could range from 200 to 400, with a weight difference of just 38 pounds. 

In the case of the Mercury 225XL V-6 versus the 250XL V-8, the weight difference is 52 pounds, which might not seem like much, but it could be significant on a small flats boat. Using multiple engines just exacerbates the ­difference.

Moving to the largest ­engine can make a huge difference. Mercury’s new Verado 600 is a 7.6L V-12 behemoth with a host of technological advances, but it also weighs 1,260 pounds. Although more weight can cause slower hole-shot times, often this is counterbalanced by the additional horsepower and larger prop that a higher-­horsepower engine can swing.  

Horsepower needs also change if only one or two people routinely use the boat. If you typically invite a crowd of friends to go fishing, powering up to the max might make more sense. Otherwise, the boat can be sluggish and slow to respond to the throttle.

Variables Matter

If a boat weighs more, it’s probably going to need more power, but factors such as the hull design also matter. A Carolina Skiff 21 SWS is a 21-footer that features a relatively flat hull bottom, weighs 2,351 pounds, and has a maximum horsepower rating of 150. The Regulator 23 has a steep 24-degree transom deadrise to help it slice through ocean waves, and weighs 6,700 pounds with a single outboard. The smallest outboard you can buy it with has 300 hp.

If a boat has a transom deadrise of 20 degrees or greater and is run in waters that can get rough, err on the side of more power. During situations such as running through a ripping inlet, having crisp throttle response is often needed to safely transit out or return.

If you’re not sure about how much power to choose, talking to a local dealer is a good idea. They have the experience with and info on the models they sell that can help you make the best possible decision when it comes to the question of horsepower.

The post How Much Horsepower Does Your Boat Really Need? appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.