Our panga wallowed in a hefty Pacific swell just a few hundred yards off a rocky peninsula while the skipper used the engine to hold us in a position. The trick was to be safe yet close enough so that we could cast our lures into the sweet spot behind the heaving mass of green water. Balancing precariously on the raised foredeck, one angler launched a popper, an industrial-size lure subscribing a graceful arc. The second it splashed down behind the breaking crest of a swell, he snapped the spinner’s bail shut, and with stiff popping action, began plunging the cup-faced lure over the wave.

Moments later, the surface to the right of the popper boiled as a rusty brown shape suddenly appeared and inhaled the lure. The line came taut, the rod bent and — despite a nearly-locked-down drag — a cubera snapper of trophy proportions effortlessly ripped out yards of line on its first blistering run directly toward the reef.

As the angler reared back against the fish, a resounding crack reverberated around the boat. The rod had snapped about 12 inches from the tip, the line breaking in the process. Hero to zero in a fraction of a second. In disgust, the fellow threw his broken rod to the deck, loudly chastising its manufacturer for a poorly built product.

I’ve witnessed similar scenarios at numerous destinations around the world, noting that anglers often apportion blame on the manufacturer. Most often, though, I’ve been convinced that this has not been the case. But of course, suggesting that the fault might lie with the angler — who just lost a good fish, even perhaps the catch of a lifetime, and broke an expensive rod in the process — is not a good idea.

Admittedly, on a few rare occasions, I’ve felt that rod breakage probably resulted from some manufacturing defect. For example, many years ago during a trip I hosted to Norway, five anglers had each purchased identical four-piece travel rods specifically for the trip. Yet within a few short hours of fishing on the first morning, four of those rods had snapped. Each had failed in the exact same place, leaving little doubt that the rods were at fault.

Like most anglers, I have my own ideas and theories about how and why rods break when fighting fish, but rather than speculate, I sought the insight of leading industry insiders and ­experienced fishing guides on what causes rods to break under stress.

Three Reasons Fishing Rods Break

Trey Epich, a former product-planning manager with Shimano, cited the three causes of rods breaking in use:

1. The rod has been somehow damaged in transit or handling (in a way that doesn’t show);
2. High-sticking while fighting a fish;
3. Mismatched tackle, as when an angler fishes too large a reel or with line too heavy for a given rod.

Epich elaborated: “When fighting fish with an appropriate tackle system that matches the intended species, an angler should never have to wonder, If I pull too hard, will my rod break?” Epich mentioned important points to consider when choosing tackle. “Make sure your reel’s drag setting, line weight and rod ratings are all in alignment. For example, you shouldn’t try to fish a large saltwater spinning reel at a full drag setting on a rod that is rated for up to 30-pound-test. Also, I see anglers who have loaded relatively small reels with very thin, very strong braided lines that are way above the maximum rating for their rod.”

Too often, even knowledgeable anglers, in the excitement of battle (especially toward the endgame), hold rods skyward, an action known as high-sticking. Perhaps more rods break at that point than in any other in-use ­situation. To avoid that, Epich said to keep your rod at an angle between 45 and 60 degrees when hooked up.

The biggest cause of rod breakage invariably is misuse or mishandling, according to Justin Poe, formerly of Shimano and Accurate Fishing, but currently director of rods at Pure Fishing. “Oftentimes rods are broken before they’re broken.”

As examples, he cited a rod hitting a ceiling fan, being dropped against an immovable object, or allowing a sinker or jig hooked in a rod keeper to bang against the blank during the long run to a fishing spot. “While none of these things might leave a rod broken in an obvious way, as soon as the fibers expand or contract at the damaged spot during a fight with a good fish, that rod snaps.”

Christopher Cathcart, engineering manger at Pure Fishing, explained that “you’ll typically see a manufacturing defect show up pretty quickly, either when casting or fighting a fish. If a rod has been used for several months of fishing and then suddenly breaks, typically that’s related to something other than a manufacturing defect.”

Understanding Fishing Rod Failures

How rod breaks appear, Epich said, can reveal the cause of a break. However, with rod materials, “we don’t see a lot of variance in breakages between materials other than a rod with heavier graphite contents will have a more sheared/shattered break, whereas one with heavier glass content will have a more splintered break.

“When we see rods that have broken into three or four pieces, that’s an indication that more force was applied to the rod than its maximum intended breaking strength. When we test our rods in a ‘hang down’ test for break strength, they almost always shatter into several pieces,” Epich continued. However, “when you see a rod break 12 to 18 inches from the tip, that’s a result of high-sticking.”

It’s pretty easy to identify why a blank has failed, Poe agreed. An impact hit will leave a small crater on the blank. Many rods are clear‑coated, which helps protect the blank from impact and UV exposure, but also helps impacts show up, as a hazy spot, likely to be close to the break. “I’ve never seen a rod break into two pieces in testing or on the water from the pull. When the rod is overloaded, it will break in three or more pieces, unless there has been an impact.”

Adding Strength to Fishing Rods

“Fiberglass rods are typically stronger than carbon (graphite) rods,” Cathcart said, but they don’t have the ­sensitivity or weight savings. Therefore, carbon rods give you some advantages over glass, but they require more care because they are more susceptible to damage and breakage due to the nature of the material. Advanced materials and resin systems help bridge this gap, and we use some of these today in our rods.”

In fact, most rod-makers add ­materials in the manufacturing process to strengthen blanks. For example, Shimano uses what it calls its Spiral-X and Hi Power-X technologies to prevent breaks that might be caused by previous impacts. “In addition,” Epich said, “both of these blank technologies add to the torsional rigidity of the blank and increase compression strength, which lead to less blank ‘ovalization’ and breakage.”

A strategy used by Accurate places a high-modulus carbon tape around the entire blank, forming an “X” pattern. This both strengthens the blank and makes it durable and impact resistant, Poe said.

The Multipiece Fishing Rod Factor

Multipiece travel rods bring up a separate set of precautions for anglers because “if the ferrule joints are not fitted together correctly, it would be like hoping for the best in your PVC ­sprinkler pipe when gluing it in at only half depth,” Poe said. “The ferrule is designed to envelop the joint, giving it all points of contact for stability. Often, if these don’t fit right, when the rod flexes, you’ll hear what we call ‘rod knock,’ which is the male end rattling around within the female end of the ferrule.”

Poe added: “This will eventually wear out the inside of the connection. As long as the ferrules fit well, a multi-piece rod is just as strong as a one-piece—some would even say stronger—provided the ferrules are located at the proper points. Some argue that ferrules create hard spots that hinder the action in multipiece rods, but I think the technology today is so good that most anglers would never know a rod was multipiece [from the action].”

Cathcart agreed that “multi-piece rods have a reputation for being weaker, but if designed properly, they can be very strong.” He cites modern multipiece fly rods and also some saltwater jigging rods that have detachable sections with the rod sliding into the top of the handle sections. “Rods like these see a lot of pressure, and they hold up just fine,” Cathcart said.

Jigging Rods Face Maximum Stress

A rod built strictly for optimal performance or sensitivity, where strength is secondary, might be more susceptible to breaking when mishandled, Poe maintained. But most rods are built with multiple layers that vary in number, thickness, orientation and material, Cathcart said, to improve performance while making them stronger.

Jigging rods in particular seem to be routinely subjected to maximum stress. Cathcart said that “these rods see a lot of stress both when working the lures and also when fighting fish. You need a rod limber enough to properly work a lure, but strong enough to land a fish. For this reason, the design of the rod is very important.

“You’ll see many modern jigging rods with a slower action in the rod blank; this allows the rod to flex more toward the middle and back end when under a load, which helps spread out the load along a longer portion of the blank. It also makes working lures a little easier.”

A Fishing Guide’s Perspective on Rod Strength

Capt. Skip Nielsen started his guiding career way back in 1973, and you can still find in him on the waters in and around Islamorada, Florida. Nielsen’s clients routinely caught 100-plus-pound tarpon along with huge sharks and grouper. So how do today’s rods compare with those used when he started fishing?

“Back in the day, the good-quality one-piece fiberglass rods were pretty hard to break. When graphite rods came out, they broke fairly easily. I was always on a quest for a stick that would not break trying to pump up a large grouper with 50-pound line,” Nielsen says. “Rods tended to break when anglers were fighting fish straight up and down: It’s all about the angle.”

Capt. Rick Stanczyk, of Bud N’ Mary’s Marina, said: “Today’s rods are incredible, but there are still do’s and don’ts. The biggest cause of rods snapping, in my experience, is due to angler error.” Not surprisingly, Stanczyk then cites high-sticking because that “puts the pressure in the tip part of the rod as opposed to the backbone; this causes the more-fragile tip to snap.”

And, Stanczyk points out—as industry insiders noted above—anglers can easily load reel-and-rod combos with thin braid much stronger than is intended for the rod. And the temptation to do so is clear: That line fits on the spool well enough and casts easily on the lighter rod. However, this ­situation can be tough on rods.

The post Why Fishing Rods Break appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Once leader material reaches a certain thickness, knots become an imperfect means of connecting hooks, swivels and lures, and creating loops for attaching snaps. From about 80-pound-test and up (be it monofilament or fluorocarbon leader line), knots don’t easily cinch tight, grow awkwardly large, and might unravel. Crimps, on the other, offer a solid and streamlined grip.

As with knots, crimps represent a critical connection between you and fish, and so they must be created using the proper crimp sleeves, tools and techniques. To learn more about this, we talked with Capt. Shawn Rotello, owner and operator of Night Runner sportfishing charters in Kona, Hawaii. Rotello targets blue marlin, yellowfin tuna and wahoo, as well as ulua (giant trevally) in the lee of the Big Island. Here are his tips for creating good crimps using a hand crimper.

Pick the Best Sleeve Size

First, make sure the crimp sleeve is properly sized to the line, says Rotello. “If the sleeve is too small, the line won’t fit inside; if it’s too large, the sleeve might not crimp tight enough to keep the line from slipping,” he explains. Hi-Seas makes it easy by labeling the packaging for the crimp sleeves to fit specific pound-test ratings. You can also match the diameter of the sleeve to the diameter of the leader. Each should be labeled on the packaging for the sleeves and leader material.

Aluminum Versus Copper Sleeves

Crimp sleeves for monofilament and fluorocarbon come in two styles: oval aluminum and double-barrel copper. Anglers debate on which is best, but Rotello offers this advice: “I tend to use the double-barrel copper sleeves for leaders of 130-pound-test and less, because they seem a tad more gentle on the lighter line.” For 150-pound-test and up, the skipper uses aluminum sleeves. For thicker leaders, the sleeves are correspondingly larger, and the lighter aluminum material keeps the weight down for better lure and live-bait action.

The Sleeve Length

Crimping sleeves come in two sizes: short and long. Short sleeves are a better choice for lighter leaders and/or line-shy fish. The long sleeves are better for heavier leaders and situations in which the crimp will not be visible, such as inside the skirt of a trolling lure or within a rigged bait.

Melt the Tag End

Rotello recommends this step before actually crimping: After you’ve threaded the leader through one end of the sleeve and back through the other end of the sleeve, pull out about 3 or 4 inches of the tag line. “Use a lighter to melt the tip of the tag line,” he says. “This creates a blob of material on the end of the tag line that helps prevent it from pulling out of the crimp.” Once it is cool, pull the end of the tag flush with the end of the crimp.”

Don’t Kink the Loop

This tip applies to loops crimped without thimbles or other chafe protection. As you are tightening the loop, avoid making it too small. It should be just large enough to prevent the loop from kinking.

Match Diameters

The jaws of a crimping tool such as the Hi-Seas Deluxe mini hand crimper have multiple indentations known as dies. This allows for crimping different sizes of sleeves. Match the size range stamped next to the die to the inside diameter (ID) of the sleeve. For copper sleeves, use the ID of one of the barrels. For oval aluminum sleeves, use the shortest inside dimension.

One or Two Crimps

With a long sleeve, crimp it at least twice, once each about 2 to 4 millimeters from the ends of the sleeve. With a short sleeve and a thick-jawed crimper, there is usually not enough room for two crimps, so just crimp once in the center. “It is important not to crimp too close to the end of the sleeve, as this may damage or nick the leader line,” Rotello says. “Leave enough room so that the end of the sleeve flares a bit.”

Perfect Pressure

If you don’t crimp a sleeve with enough pressure, the line can slip out. Too much pressure can damage the leader line and cause it to break. A quality crimping tool such as the Hi-Seas Deluxe mini hand crimper comes calibrated for applying just the right amount of pressure to create secure crimps that do not damage the line.

Chafe Protection

Chafe protection such as thimbles or tubing keep the leader loop from wearing thin while trolling or battling a fish. “I like to use chafe protection when fishing marlin,” Rotello says. “This is especially important around the hook since a marlin’s bill and mouth are about the same as 60-grit sandpaper.” As with crimp sleeves, thimbles and chafe tubing need to be matched to the diameter of the leader line.

The post How to Make Good Crimps appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

The AWEMUFA Boat Fender features an innovative, patented design with a sleek, streamlined exterior inspired by stylish sports cars. Made from durable, environmentally-friendly EVA material, these boat dock bumpers offer exceptional impact resistance.

Pros

Integrated Locking System: The extra-long straps are not only easy to use but also have an integrated automatic locking system that securely fastens the fender to the dock or deck without the need for complicated knots.

Innovative Design: The curved shape of the fender hugs the side of your boat so that it stays in place and doesn’t roll around like traditional fenders.

Cons

Limited Color Options: The fenders may be available in fewer colors, which might not appeal to those looking for a specific aesthetic for their boat.

The PENN Slammer IV Spinning Reel is the perfect choice for anglers who demand durability, power, and smooth performance, especially in challenging saltwater environments. This reel is built to handle tough conditions and big catches, making it a reliable companion for both serious and recreational fishermen. Here’s why the Slammer IV stands out:

Pros

Powerful Drag System: The Slammer Dura Drag System is known for its smoothness and reliability, providing the power needed to handle big fish without sacrificing control.

Superline Spool: The reel comes equipped with a superline spool that doesn’t require backing, thanks to the rubber gasket that keeps braided lines from slipping.

Fully Sealed Design: The Slammer IV features PENN’s IPX6 sealed system, which keeps water out of the gear box and drag system. This is crucial for maintaining long-term performance and durability in saltwater environments where corrosion is a concern.

Cons

Weight: The Slammer IV is slightly heavier than some other reels in its class due to its solid metal construction.

The Simrad NSX 12 Multifunction Display with Active Imaging 3-in-1 Transducer and HALO 20 Bundle is an outstanding choice for serious boaters seeking advanced navigation and fishing capabilities. This comprehensive system enhances your time on the water with its state-of-the-art technology and user-friendly interface.

Pros

Vibrant 12-Inch Display: The high-resolution touchscreen delivers bright, clear images, making it easy to view charts and sonar data in all lighting conditions.

Advanced 3-in-1 Transducer: The Active Imaging transducer combines CHIRP sonar, SideScan, and DownScan imaging, providing unparalleled clarity and detail.

HALO 20 Radar: The included HALO 20 radar offers exceptional situational awareness, giving you real-time information about nearby vessels and obstacles.

Cons

Learning Curve: With advanced functionalities, new users may take some time to master the system.

The post Sport Fishing’s Deals of the Week appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Anyone who has spent hours and hours casting a spinning rod appreciates lower weight and a compact size. But when a big fish turns up the heat, a spinning reel has to muster the power to respond. Fortunately, the next generation of ultralight spinning reels feature design and technology to prevent corrosion and damage with beefed-up components and silky smooth drag for years of reliable performance.

PENN Clash II

In addition to a carbon fiber drag, CNC-cut gears, the water-resistant Clash II has a super-slow oscillating rotor with ball bearing line roller that lays line on the spool so it leaves the reel faster for longer casts with a light lure.

Okuma Inspira ISX

Inside the Inspira’s all-metal body, the small reel packs oversized gears, protected pinion and clutch and stainless-steel bearings. With sizes down to 2000 and priced around a hundred bucks, the Inspira ISX also packs a great value.

Shimano Saragosa SW A

Features like a water-resistant body, carbon drag and shielded stainless steel bearings make the Saragosa SW A virtually bulletproof. On the inside, the pinion gear is supported on both ends with low-friction bushing and a large cold-forged main gear provides cranking strength usually found on more expensive reels.

Daiwa BG MQ 2500-H

In addition to a long list of saltwater-ready features, Daiwa’s BG MQ most unique technology is the super low-friction grease on the drag washers. When a fish takes off, the drag engages smoothly and quickly applies even and steady pressure to the line.

13 Fishing Axum

A sealed rotor, corrosion proof ball bearings and ceramic line roller eliminate common failure points on the new 13 Fishing Axum. The soft and grippy cork reel knob is comfortable for long days finesse fishing.

Quantum Strive

Quantum is back in a big way with the introduction of the Strive. This lightweight marvel features 11 seals to be waterproof to IP standards and beyond, with a smooth carbon fiber drag system housed in a sturdy aluminum frame for bantamweight rigidity.

The post The Best Lightweight Spinning Reels appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Bajio Sigs With Rose Mirror

“The rose mirror lens color is the ticket for daily needs; we rarely have cloudless days here. The lens helps see the reds, seatrout and tarpon in contrast to the bottom. On sunny days, the lens cut glare so the surface roll and flash of prime targets or bait can be seen from a distance.” — Capt. Alan Jackson, NearShore Guiding, Beaufort County, South Carolina

Costa Fantail PRO With Copper Silver Mirror

“When it comes to our Lowcountry marsh, you have to be ready for it all. A calm sunny morning can quickly give way to intermittent or heavy cloud cover. Sight fishing is our preferred game, and around here, copper lenses reign supreme. This lens color fits with local water color to make shapes pop. I also wear a frame that prevents peripheral light from creeping into the corners of your eyes that can skew your focus and obscure your vision.” — Capt. Cleve Hancock, Brown Dog Sport Fishing, Charleston, South Carolina

Read Next: Prescription Sunglasses for Fishermen

Pelagic Navigator With Green Mirror

“The new Navigator frames are growing on me due to the light-blocking panels on the side of the frame. For the inshore waters I fish, green mirror/amber lenses or grey mirror/yellow lenses are the way to go. I keep both handy every time I’m out. On a typical sunny day, the green mirror/amber lens is my choice to reflect green light away from the eye.” — Capt. Tyler Kapela, Hit and Run Charters, Tampa Bay, Florida

The post What Is the Best Color Sunglass Lens For Fishing In The Marsh? appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Over the past year, Flip Pallot’s Instagram has featured airboat accidents, whitetail deer, turkey and hog hunts, making archery quivers for friends, and teaching fly-fishing school. The host of the seminal “Walker’s Cay Chronicles,” voice of Sport Fishing Television, and co-owner of Frigate Reserve rum is staying plenty busy. But not so busy as to avoid our “Favorite Things” Q&A.

Flip’s favorite….

… fly-fishing rod and reel: “Temple Fork Mangrove Coast rod, Nautilus fly reel.”

… flats-fishing destination: “The Bahamas, when I can’t be in the Everglades.”

… species to chase: “Snook.”

… place on Earth when not fishing: “Western Rocky Mountains.”

… memory from shooting “Walker’s Cay Chronicles”: “My first-ever blue marlin on fly in Venezuela with Jose Wejebe, a world record on 12-pound tippet, left overnight in a walk-in cooler to be officially weighed the next day. Someone cut a huge chunk out of it to eat while it was in the cooler.”

… piece of advice from Lefty Kreh: “Don’t let your loyalty keep you in situations that your common sense tells you to get out of.”

… way to drink Frigate Reserve: “Neat and at room temperature.”

… motto/saying: “Bye for now.”

The post Flip Pallot’s Favorite Things in Fishing appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Although the huge international tackle trade show, ICAST, is closed to the general public, covering it as a journalist who’s crazy about fishing meant spending two or three days gawking at brand new fishing products. So much new gear looked so interesting, innovative and promising at the July event. From the seemingly endless number of products, I’ve picked out 12 to share here. Some are so new they might not be available for a few weeks, but definitely look to be worth the wait.

Columbia PFG Pro Sport Deck Boot

Florida Keys fly guide and Columbia PFG ambassador Capt. Bear Holeman greeted us at the brand’s exhibitor space with big hellos, high fives and hugs; the former Division I offensive lineman even lifted one petite woman off the ground. The conversation quickly led to Holeman opening his phone and sharing photos of his recent fly-fishing trip to Ireland. From there, Columbia rep Andy Nordhoff gave us a tour of their coming additions for Spring 2025, including their entry into the crowded deck boot space: the PFG Pro Sport. Two standout features: the notches on the heel for easy removal, and the Omni-MAX sole. Unlike other deck boots that are flat with no foot contour, these soles provide adaptive cushioning, enhanced stability and high-level comfort. Think of it as the evolution of basketball players going from Converse to Air Jordan. Suggested retail price: $100. www.columbia.com — Shawn Bean

Daiwa Saltiga Light Jigging Rod

The new Saltiga light jigging rods from Daiwa exemplify an industry trend of focus on jigging gear, making it lighter and stronger. That was evident at the ICAST show, where anglers unsuccessfully tried to break the rod, pulling against stout braid tethered securely. That strength stems from solid carbon construction, with Daiwa’s X45 carbon-fiber weave throughout the blank. Fuji K guides with SIC (silicon carbide) rings ensure smooth passage of braid, with reduced friction and heat under load. The 6-foot, 2-inch conventional models accommodate jigs to 160 grams (5.5 ounces) and to 200 grams (7 ounces). Both are designed for up to 20-pound braid. Retail is set at $449.99. daiwa.us

Fish Arrow Riser Jack Jointed Swimbait

The marketing team for this 8 ¾-inch Japanese swimbait claim its swimming action is incredibly realistic. Watching it underwater, upon a moderate retrieve, one is hard-pressed to argue with that. The Riser Jack (so named because it rises headfirst, if paused during retrieve) is a collaboration between two leading Japanese lure manufacturers. The lip is easily removed for a very different movement (for example, as a topwater wakebait). The hard-plastic jointed lure weighs 2 ½ ounces and is available in 11 colors. Manufacturer’s price is $74.07. Spare lips and v-tails in different colors are also available. kkjapanlure.com

Halco Laser Pro 210

Halco’s venerable Laser Pro series has gained wide recognition as one of the premier trolling hard lures ever made. The Australian lure maker has finally bowed to popular demand and offers the largest Laser Pro ever, a 210 model. The 8 ¼-inch Laser Pro is designed with the same strength and durability as other LP models, including Halco’s noteworthy Triple-Turn split rings, the extra turn providing what Halco says is 70 percent more strength than most rings. It also uses polycarbonate lips (“bibs” Down Under) made to last. The 210 comes with super-strong inline single hooks. halcotackle.com

Isle Flywater Micro-Skiff Hybrid

Isle boasts that its new skiff-kayak hybrid is “300-percent more rigid than usual inflatables.” While that’s tough to really evaluate, a hands-on evaluation offers some justification. The Flywater’s patented Infinity Fiber composite construction makes it rugged and rigid. The 12 ½-foot boat’s shallow draft allows it the stealth to sneak into most waters. Its light weight (49 pounds hull only) makes it fast, whether paddling or with a small electric or gas trolling motor. An “Isle-Link” system is designed for installing accessories, such as one or two “Cloud Kayak Seats” (included with the boat). $1,695 list. islesurfandsup.com

Nocqua 20-Ah Lithium Battery

From personal experience, this little 12-volt rechargeable lithium battery is a small wonder for kayak anglers running electronics. Although it’s not much larger than your fist, it will easily power a 7-inch color sounder/GPS for a long day and have power left over. A water-resistant silicon skin encases the battery, further enclosed in a durable nylon sleeve. A sealed connection protects electrical integrity. The battery comes with a Nocqua Pro Battery Charger with circuit-board protection, overcharge protection and battery-level indicator. It offers a 12-month limited warranty. The 3-pound battery measures 8 by 8 by 4 inches. MSRP: $169.99.  nocqua.com

Ocean’s Legacy Roven Jigs

Among the more eye-catching lures on display at the 2024 ICAST show, if these jigs catch fish as effectively as fishermen, they should be dynamite. The Roven series is a dedicated slow-pitch design, offering a slow side-to-side rocking motion as it falls nearly horizontally, offering appealing action even in low-current conditions. Its glow pattern and ultra-high-UV shimmer maximize reflection. The Roven comes in 9 colors and sizes ranging from 40 grams to 260 grams, priced at $11.95 (for the 40) to $22.95 (for the 260). oceanslegacy.com

Penn Fathom Electric Reel

Everyone at the show had to check out the new electric reel from Penn. The Fathom Electric reel incorporates an integrated lithium battery, easy-to-use LED display screen, and simple customizable settings. That’s right, this electric deep-dropper is entirely cordless. Well, unless you really want a cord, and Penn has optional corded batteries with pigtail or Hubbell plug connections. The reel has a max winding power of 35 lbs. and can achieve speeds of up to 750 feet per minute, says the company. Reels are currently produced in 30, 50, and 80 sizes. MSRP is expected to range from $799.95 to $899.95. Extra batteries cost about $100, chargers $100 to $200. The reels should be available in September 2024. pennfishing.com — Sam Hudson

Quantum Benchmark Spinning Reels

Quantum’s venerable Cabo and Boca reels developed a loyal following for reliability at a reasonable price. Now, the manufacturer offers its Benchmark series, employing rigid aluminum frames sealed with what the reel-maker calls Sealoq 6, promising to protect internal components and five stainless-steel ball bearings from water, salt and sand. The aluminum and brass gearing is cut to tight tolerances for smooth performance. The carbon-fiber drag system is said to offer impressive max-drag levels with a consistent performance curve. Six sizes range from 2500 to 8000, accommodating 10- to 65-pound braid. Prices range from $149.95 to $189.95. quantumfishing.com

Salta MagRunner 220 Deep-Diving Lure

What might be the ultimate deep diver will troll to more than 100 feet, claims Salta Lures. Its MagRunner 220 offers two attachment points, one for deep trolling and the other for ultra-deep — at up to 10 knots. The MagRunner is through-wired and made of aircraft-grade polycarbonate, said to be twice as strong as ABS. It comes with two stainless-steel big-game hooks, incorporated into a four-magnet HookMag system that magnetically keeps the belly hook in the downward stinger position until released on the strike. The lure measures 8 ¾ inch and features 555-pound stainless ball-bearing swivels connecting hooks via Power-Lokk 470-pound stainless split rings. It should be available by November, 2024, at a price of $75.95-79.95. saltalures.com

Stafu Tasman Hooded Tech Shirt

Seen one fishing shirt and you’ve seen ‘em all? Not quite: Turkish apparel maker Stafu’s new line of Tasman Rash-Guard hoody lightweight fishing shirts for men stands out from the crowd. But beneath their innovative graphics and colors, these ultra-lightweight shirts are loaded with features for anglers, including: moisture wicking, bi-stretch fabric; antibacterial properties; 40+ UPF protection; and they’re water- and stain repellent. The shirts are 85 percent polyester and 15 percent elastane (an exceptionally elastic polyurethane). The shirt is available in several colors in addition to the striking octopus pattern shown, in sizes small to 3X large. It will sell for approximately $95. stafupro.com

Strike King Rage Hawk Soft Bait

Among dozens of soft-lure designs, this Rage Hawk caught the attention of many anglers at the ICAST show. Strike King quotes one bass pro as choosing this bait “when you want to show the fish something different.” An apt description, the unique shape of the Rage Hawk can be rigged weedless and pulled through cover or sight-cast in the spring. Its body will accommodate a 5/0 hook perfectly, Strike King maintains. The lure measure 3 ¼ inch. It’s available in 13 colors, and a package of nine baits sells for $6.99. strikeking.com

The post Standout Fishing Tackle From ICAST 2024 appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

My boat was drifting on a calm conveyor belt of water running through an ancient minefield of boulders when I drew my first strike. More precisely, four strikes. Clichés rushed to mind — “third time’s the charm” and “three strikes, you’re out”— but none ended up applying. A big bluefish had chased, crashed and missed my topwater on three successive attempts. The final hit came just as I lifted the plug from the water. The slammer blue startled and soaked me as it connected with the treble hook and ran, almost yanking the rod from my hand, the spool like a tire spinning in snow.

Moments later, Bard and I waltzed around the center console as our lines crossed and then crossed again. I ducked under Bard’s rod as he reached his over me, trying to control the chaos while I kept an eye on a boulder looming down-current. Finally, with one hand still locked on my bent rod, I cranked the engine and nudged it into gear, idling us to safer water and leading the predators out of the rocks like untrained dogs on leashes. It was late September, and shaping up to be a great afternoon along a gnarled island 8 miles off Connecticut.

Birth of World-Class Fishing Structure

About 85,000 years ago, the late Wisconsin Glacier inched its way southeast from Canada, eventually reaching southern New England approximately 26,000 years ago. As the ice mass moved, a mile high at its thickest, it compressed and scoured the landscape like a massive, creeping bulldozer.

Roughly 6,000 years later, the glacier paused just beyond Connecticut and began to recede. At this point, the huge floe deposited its end moraine — mountains of sediment composed of rocks, gravel, sand and soil — creating most of western Long Island, New York. World-class fishing structure was born.

As the glacier retreated, it paused several more times, depositing additional moraines and forming the east end of New York’s Long Island, Plum Island, Great Gull Island and Fishers Island. The glacier also dropped smaller rubble piles in northern Long Island Sound, including Falkner Island, Charles Island, the Norwalk Islands and the Captain Islands. Farther northeast, moraines also created the now-famous tourist and fishing destinations of Block Island, Rhode Island and the Elizabeth Islands, Martha’s Vineyard, and Nantucket, Massachusetts.

Boulders Attract Fishing Predators

Boulders in a tidal current are to bluefish and striped bass what rocks in a stream are to brook and brown trout. These random obstacles disturb water flow and create resting and feeding stations for predators and prey.

“Big rocks provide optimal structure and divert currents,” says Capt. Chris Elser, a shallow-water expert from southwest Connecticut with more than 35 years of experience fishing coastal islands. “The water around boulder fields becomes oxygenated from wave action and currents coursing between and over large rocks, which attracts crustaceans, eels and many other baitfish.”

Rocks also draw baits because they host seaweed, which in turn provides forage and sanctuary for prey species. “Stripers and blues stalk these baits by holding near boulders,” says Elser. “They lurk there in ambush mode. The sheltered areas also allow large fish to expend minimal energy in a highly productive feeding environment, and they feel protected in the vast structure.”

The Why and Where of Islands

Islands are worth the time, effort and fuel it takes to fish them because not everybody’s small boat can get there; only skilled and serious anglers make the trip across big bays and sounds, and that means less competition. Islands are more often adjacent to deeper water than is mainland structure, and islands have current flow on all sides, which gives fish and fishermen more options, including shelter. Islands are 360-degree habitats in which fish might feed on either the incoming, outgoing or both tide phases.

When searching for prime casting stretches, pros always study the dry land contours. For example, if the shore is flat and gradual, expect adjacent water to be shallow with a clear bottom. Conversely, if the island banks are steep and rocky, pros expect the bottom to drop off abruptly. The more rugged the structure, the better the chance of finding large fish.

With Structure, Size Does Matter

Upon idling into a promising area, experts work the outer edges of a boulder field first, where the water is deepest, and progressively move and cast closer on each drift. Points, corners and pockets are key target zones because they are near strong currents but also provide eddies where fish station and hunt.

“Dominant fish usually own the territory near the biggest rock,” says Elser, “so it’s key to find the largest piece of structure within a particular group of rocks. I prefer to fish structure on the side facing the wind because it adds to the speed of the upper currents and creates whirlpools in the boulder fields. Small baits struggle here, making for easy prey. The current and wind wash crabs, shrimp, eels and other baitfish into the surf, creating feeding opportunities.”

Capt. Ned Kittredge, a pro from southern Massachusetts with 40 years of experience, looks for shallows of 2 to 20 feet over rocky shoreline structure with moving water. “I’ve found stripers in as little as 18 inches of water,” he says. “The action in this range can be phenomenal and breathtaking. But it’s not necessarily fast water. The current I look for is more subtle. On the deep end, if there’s bait present and the fish are feeding, they’ll come up from 20 feet to grab a plug. But not much deeper than that.”

Working the Waters

Stripers and bluefish spook easily when feeding in less than 15 feet of water during calm conditions, so it’s important to cover the water before your boat drifts through. When the current is moving fast, slowing your boat is a good technique that enables you to fan-cast the edges of the boulder field before being pushed past them. You can employ a trolling motor, push-pole or anchor to control your drift.

Kittredge starts a drift in approximately 25 feet of water and slowly works toward shore, casting over as much area as possible until he locates fish. “I’ll sometimes use a drift sock to slow the boat,” he says of those times when there is a breeze opposing the current.

When conditions are right, the most challenging and exciting way to access big fish is to stalk them in skinny water among the boulders. Cutting-edge anglers use their fishing boat as a mothership to transport kayaks or stand-up paddleboards to an island, and then deploy them to paddle over water too shallow for a powerboat.

“On calm days,” says guide Sean Callinan, who specializes in SUP adventures along the Connecticut coast, “you can’t beat the thrill of casting a plug or fly to predators while gliding through a maze of structure that may hold your trophy.”

Of course, paddlers must bring all necessary safety gear, including a flotation device, a cellphone in a resealable bag, a bottle of water, a signaling device and a pair of waterproof handheld radios to communicate with the mothership. An experienced companion must man the mothership and fish within sight of the paddler.

Topwater Fishing Tricks for Stripers

“First,” says Capt. Dixon Merkt, a light-tackle and fly specialist along the tide-swept islands and rips of eastern Long Island Sound, “you need to learn how to read the water. Look for nervous water created by the current moving over submerged structure. Start fishing ahead of it and work your way down through it. Never hesitate to cast way beyond that nervous water and retrieve the plug back over it so it looks like an escaping baitfish traveling over a distance.”

Any retrieve works for blues and bass when they’re aggressive and hungry. But when they’re fussy, you’ll need to vary your technique until you find one that produces. For bluefish, a steady, fast and noisy retrieve is effective. But for stripers, most pros slowly work a spook or pencil popper in a walk-the-dog style. Occasionally changing speed or pausing will often prompt a strike from a stubborn linesider.

“If you get a blue that short-hits and misses the plug several times,” says Merkt, “stop and then start the fast retrieve again. You’re likely to hook up on the next attack.”

Once a fish grabs your topwater, you’ll need to put some backbone into the set because a slow-moving lure won’t set itself. “Blues and big stripers have a mouth as hard as Tupperware,” says Kittredge, “and you need to punch a hole in it. Once a fish is hooked, use plenty of pressure to work it out of the rocks as quickly as possible, using the motor if necessary, and hope for good luck. I’ve lost plenty of big bass because I wasn’t ready for a fish of that size.”

Best Times to Fish and the Best Rigs to Use

“As a rule of thumb,” says Elser, “the lower the light, the shallower the water you can productively target. Ninety percent of my topwater fishing takes place near dawn and dusk.

Elser favors a 12- to 20-pound-class 7-foot rod loaded with 30-pound Daiwa braided line. He attaches a 3-foot section of 25-pound fluorocarbon leader.

Kittredge slings his big lures with 7- to 8-foot medium spinning rods, like those from G. Loomi . He matches the rod with a Shimano 5000 spinning reel. He likes 40-pound braided main line for its abrasion resistance in the boulders and positive hook-sets. To that he attaches a 4- to 6-foot section of 40-pound fluorocarbon leader using a double uni-knot for the line-to-leader connection.

“Eels cost a lot,” says Kittredge, “and they don’t really work properly when fish are against the rocks in the wave wash in only 2 to 3 feet of water. Plugs produce well in skinny water and rarely get hung up. Plus, you can get out fishing in a moment’s notice with minimal preparation. Best of all, it’s extremely exciting seeing a big fish smack a topwater.”

Dave Bard and I finished our September evening with three big bluefish, about a dozen schoolie bass and one 37-inch trophy. As we ran back across the pond in the fading twilight, we traded waves with tourists on a passing ferry, happy that we were in the smaller vessel, returning from a great boulder-field adventure.

Tips for Safely Fishing Boulder Fields

Casting among island boulders miles from the mainland has its rewards but also its risks. The surf, wind or current can quickly push you into the rocks, causing grounding, hull damage or a busted prop. “The cost of failure is very high,” notes Capt. Merkt. “Twice, with an old engine, I suddenly couldn’t get it started and ended up frantically throwing out an anchor, and both times had the stern swing within feet of a turbulent shore. These aren’t places that inexperienced fishermen should go.”

• Have an anchor handy and ready.
• Never fish alone.
• Anchor or use a trolling motor when fishing in an onshore wind.
• Pay attention, even when you’re fighting the big one.
• Study your chart, know the depth contours and structure, and set up drifts in the safe zone.
• Use your GPS tracking option to monitor and repeat safe drifts.
• Have someone skilled at the helm.
• Leave the motor running during turbulent conditions.
• Keep your engine tilted as high as possible without sucking air.
• Use a telescopic push pole to fend off rocks.
• Learn the waters and structures at high and low tides.
• Wear polarized sunglasses to help watch for rocks.
• Leave a float plan with someone reliable.

The post Catch Striped Bass and Bluefish Near Boulders appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Tarpon: Fenwick Elite XH, Penn Authority 5500

“The Fenwick Elite 8-foot XH rod matched with the Penn Authority 5500 reel is an awesome tarpon setup. It’s an all-around workhorse that is perfect for throwing your favorite artificials or tossing a live crab. The Elite has some nice features such as lightweight titanium guides with super-hard inserts, a reel seat with double-lock ring system, and a rubber gimbal mount rod butt that works great whether you choose to use a fighting belt or not. I like to match the Authority 5500 with 50-pound SpiderWire UltraCast braid for most of my tarpon fishing applications.” — Capt. Danny Latham, Reel Fishing Charters, Boca Grande, Florida

Redfish: G. Loomis NRX+ Inshore Casting, Shimano Metanium MGL 150

“Big reds can really put some stress on your gear, but the Shimano Metanium MGL 150 baitcaster has the pure power needed to maneuver fish out of heavy cover. Pair it with the G. Loomis NRX+ Inshore casting rod for precision accuracy when backwater fishing with swimbaits, jigs, and topwaters. The rod has the perfect load to make pinpoint casts all day long. Triggering inshore fish can come down to speed, and the Metanium MGL can move a variety of baits very fast. Plus, it’s very easy to adjust on the fly. This setup can handle just about any presentation or inshore species I encounter daily.” — Capt. Jason Catchings, Shimano Pro Staffer

Snook: Daiwa SOL AGS Inshore, Daiwa Certate

“Yeah, it’s remarkably lightweight. That’s the first thing you notice when picking up Daiwa’s SOL AGS Inshore rod. Utilizing HVF graphite blank material, Braiding X carbon weave tech, and AGS guides, Daiwa went all in on quality components and weight reduction. Now, when fishing backwaters for snook or seatrout, sensitivity and fatigue won’t be a problem. Pair the 7-foot rod with Daiwa’s Certate SW spinner. The Certate has a single-piece body and G1 Duralumin drive gear, both stolen from the 20 Saltiga. Together, the setup will break the will of anything you’ll likely encounter in the marsh.” — Sam Hudson

The post The Best Rods and Reels for the Backcountry appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.

Topwater: Berkley HighJacker Saltwater

“I’ll use the HighJacker Saltwater most often for shallow-water fishing due to its higher pitch sound. I truly think it attracts more fish. Tie an Albright knot from main line to the. leader, and then a loop knot to the topwater for as much action as possible. My favorite technique is to work the bait fast and furiously. I use this bait a lot faster than most anglers probably do and I see a higher percentage of hookups with the bait having three hooks.” — Travis Land, Redfish Tournament Pro, Seguin, Texas

Jig: Buggs Fishing Curl-Tail Redfish Jig

“The Curl-Tail Redfish Jig so successful in shallow water for three reasons — it lands softly, looks alive in the water, and imitates a lot of what gamefish eat. Before your first cast, hold it under the water and squeeze the rabbit strips between your fingers. The rabbit hide holds little air bubbles. You only have to do this once, and only for about five seconds. When the rabbit strips get wet they look alive in the water. This jig will land hook point up every time. If you’re sight casting over sand or mud bottom, you can lead the fish and let the jig settle to the bottom. Any current or slight twitch of your rod tip will make the Buggs look alive. Give it some twitches along the way and you’ll engage the rattles on the bottom of the jig.” — Heath Hippel, Owner and Founder, Buggs Fishing

Swimbait: Z-Man Mulletron with ZWG Swimbait Hook

“The buoyancy of the Z-Man Mulletron lets me fish it in the shallowest water—over shallow rocks and grass, in particular. I make a long cast and with the rod tip at 10 to 10:30, I just give the bait a straight, relatively slow retrieve. The chin weight on the ZWG hook lets me bump bottom, transmitting bottom composition (rock, sand, shells, etc.) without hanging up. The floating nature of the Mulletron’s ElaZtech material means I can swim it within inches of bottom, or even slow drag it across the substrate, especially effective for redfish and seatrout. For snook, I simply speed up the retrieve bit and keep the bait up near the surface, where the lighter belly of patterns like Bad Shad or Pearl become highly visible to the fish.” — Capt. C.A. Richardson, Host of Flats Class TV

Shrimp: Savage Gear Manic Shrimp Weedless V2

“My favorite way to use the Savage Gear Manic Shrimp for shallow waters is sight fishing for redfish. This bait works because of its realistic legs and scent, plus natural color options. The bait is available weedless or with hook exposed. All of our coastal fish eat shrimp and this bait looks great. Cast the bait directly in front of a red and twitch it. I use 20-pound leader when fishing this shrimp, so I prefer to tie an improved clinch knot. In waters 3 to 6 feet deep, I rig it 20 inches below a cork and work it with a sharp snappy pop — not a long pull.” — Capt. Tommy Pellegrin, Owner of Custom Charters, LLC, Houma, Louisiana

The post Four Lures to Cast in Shallow Water appeared first on Sport Fishing Mag.